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Douglas-fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii) is one of the premier species of the Western forests. Not only is the wood exceptionally strong for its weight, but the trees are abundant. Trees can grow more than 250 feet tall (with the first 150 feet free of knots and branches) and more than 6 feet in diameter. Some trees are well over 800 years old.

Certainly, harvesting of some of these “old-growth” trees today must be done cautiously to avoid environmental damage and avoid depleting the forests of these icons. However, forest fires in recent years, brought on in part by poor forest management in the past years, have raised questions. Should we remove trees before they burn? If so, how many? 

Much of the Douglas-fir lumber today is coming from trees less than 100 years old, which are called second-growth. Lumber properties may not be as high as with old growth, but the wood is still a superior product — strong, clear, nice grain appearance, good processing characteristics and so on. Most uses for Douglas-fir today capitalize on the wood’s high strength, yet the beauty of this wood makes it favored for millwork, furniture, cabinets and flooring.

Douglas-fir has two varieties: Coastal Douglas-fir, coming from British Columbia to California, with the best growth west of the Cascade Mountains, and Interior Douglas-fir coming mainly from the Rocky Mountains. Most wood processors prefer the Coastal variety, as it is stronger, stiffer, clearer (free of knots), and processes better. Data shown here is for Coastal. Clear wood is desired for its high strength and consistent look, and so it is quite expensive. 

Processing suggestions and characteristics
Weight: Douglas-fir has a green specific gravity (SG) of 0.45. At 6 percent MC, the SG is 0.50. The weight, when dry, is 32 pounds per cubic foot or about 2.0 pounds per board foot (planed to 3/4-inch thickness). Most Doug-fir lumber will be sold dried and planed (S4S, surfaced 4 sides).

Strength: For dry wood, the ultimate strength (MOR) is 12,400 psi, stiffness (MOE) is 1.95 million psi and hardness is 710 pounds. Douglas-fir, when quite dry, does have a tendency to split, so predrilling of holes for fasteners might be required at times.

Drying and stability: Drying and stability. The wood dries rapidly with little risk of quality loss. Most suppliers will sell only KD stock, rather than green. Shrinkage in drying is fairly low. Overall shrinkage from green to 6 percent MC is 6.9 percent tangentially (the width in flatsawn lumber) and 3.8 percent radially (the thickness of flatsawn lumber). Once dried, the wood does not move much even with large RH changes. A typical, desired, final moisture range is 9 to 10.5 percent MC. Once dry, it takes a 4 percent MC change to result in 1 percent size change tangentially and 7.5 percent MC change radially. 

Machining and gluing: Machining and gluing. This wood machines well, unless the MC is too low (under 9 percent MC). It glues without difficulty.

Grain and color. The color of Douglas-fir varies from a reddish color to yellowish. The color darkens somewhat when exposed to light. Light earlywood and darker latewood gives the wood an obvious heavy grain appearance.

This post appeared first on http://www.woodworkingnetwork.com

Wondering how to cut vinyl flooring? Measure and mark your plank, score it with a utility knife and snap it cleanly. For thicker planks or intricate cuts, use a vinyl cutter or jigsaw. 

With the right tools and a little patience, learning how to cut LVT flooring is a DIY-friendly job you can confidently tackle at home. And don’t forget to wear your safety gloves!

Jump to:

• Tools You’ll Need to Cut Vinyl Flooring
• Step-by-Step Guide to Cutting Vinyl Flooring
• How to Cut Different Types of Vinyl Flooring
• Tips for Clean Cuts
• Ready to Install your Vinyl Flooring
• Shop LVT Flooring at Luxury Flooring

Tools You’ll Need to Cut Vinyl Flooring

• Utility knife – perfect for the score and snap method.
• Vinyl floor cutter – handy for bulk cutting, especially with thicker planks.
• Jigsaw – ideal for corners, curves and tricky shapes.
• Straight edge or a ruler and pencil – for accurate marking.
• Safety kit – gloves to protect your hands and knee pads for comfort.

Step-by-Step Guide to Cutting Vinyl Flooring

Cutting vinyl flooring doesn’t have to feel daunting. This step-by-step guide is here to help you feel confident and at ease. Remember to take your time, keep blades sharp and always cut away from your body.

1. Measure and mark accurately:
   Measure the space where the plank will sit and leave a small gap at the edges for movement if you’re fitting SPC or Click LVT. Mark the top side with a pencil for a clear and removable line. You’ll then need a metal ruler (or a spare plank) to draw a straight line.

   For straight end cuts, line the plank up with another plank to keep it square. For cutting long lengthways, hold or clamp a straight edge and score along it so the knife doesn’t drift.

2. Choose your method:
   Next, choose the tool that matches the job.

   A utility knife is the easiest for most planks and tiles as it’s quiet, clean and accurate.

   A vinyl floor cutter is perfect for big rooms and thicker planks, as it makes fast, repeatable, straight cuts.

   A jigsaw, on the other hand, is best for curves and awkward shapes with its fine-tooth blade, as it supports the plank on both sides and goes at a steady speed.
   

3. Score and snap:
   Don’t force the cut! Instead, make a few light slices across the line on your plank. 

   From there, bend the offcut backwards so the plank snaps before slicing through the backing to separate it. 

   For very stiff or thick planks, it’s best to score both the front and the back before snapping. Alternatively, you can switch to a cutter. For long cuts with the grain, you should keep even pressure along the straight edge and take extra passes until the snap is clean.

4. Cut intricate shapes:
   For pipes, measure to the centre of the pipe, mark it on the plank and drill a hole slightly bigger than the pipe. Then cut a straight line from the nearest edge to the hole, fit the plank and glue the small piece back in. You can finish with a matching pipe cover.

   For door frames, you can trim the bottom of the frame so the plank slides under, or mark and cut the plank to fit around it. Drill a small hole in the inside corners to prevent tearing, then follow your lines with a jigsaw or knife.

   For toilets and curved bases, make a quick paper template with masking tape, draw the curve and transfer it to the plank or sheet. From there, cut slowly, trimming a little at a time until it sits snug.

5. Test fit pieces before installing:
   Place every cut plank into position before you click or glue. From there, you can check the gaps at the edges with spacers, make sure the patterns line up and that the edges are smooth. Don’t forget to trim any rough spots with a fresh blade. Finally, vacuum away any dust to ensure the joints close tightly. If you’re working in a big room, it’s a good idea to write a quick note on the back of each piece to show where it goes, ensuring a smooth installation.

How to Cut Different Types of Vinyl Flooring 

Different types of vinyl flooring may need slightly different cutting approaches.

Click & Glue-Down LVT: The score and snap method with a utility knife works best for this flooring.
SPC or Rigid Core Vinyl: These denser planks may require a vinyl cutter or a fine-toothed jigsaw.
Vinyl Sheet Flooring: Use a utility knife for long cuts, but trim carefully around walls and fixtures.

Tips for Clean Cuts 

For a neat, professional-looking finish, keep these tips in mind:

• Always work on a stable surface to avoid slips and cut away from your body to avoid injuries.
• Change your blades often, as blunt blades can tear the vinyl.
• Cut face-up to protect the design layer of your LVT flooring.
• Practice on an offcut first if you’re unsure.

Ready to Install Your Vinyl Flooring? 

Once you’ve got the hang of cutting vinyl flooring, you’re ready for the next step. 

Dry lay a few rows to double-check the layout, then move on to fitting. Our simple guide on how to lay luxury vinyl tiles walks you through preparation, installation and finishing your floor, helping you complete the job confidently.

Shop LVT Flooring at Luxury Flooring 

Want to explore our full vinyl flooring range? Get in touch with our friendly flooring experts! They’ll be happy to answer your questions and recommend your dream floor from our unlimited free samples.

Don’t forget to follow us on Instagram and TikTok, where you can keep up to date with all the latest news, blog posts and helpful tips. Tag us on Instagram at #MyLuxuryFloor and mention us on TikTok @luxuryflooringfurnishing.

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LVT, which stands for Luxury Vinyl Tile, is a modern flooring option that replicates the look of natural materials, such as wood and stone, while offering the practical and affordable benefits of vinyl. 

Available in both tiles and planks, LVT combines style with durability and affordability, making it one of the most popular choices for homes.

Jump to:

• What is LVT Flooring Made Of?
• Benefits of LVT Flooring
• Types of LVT Flooring
• LVT vs Other Flooring Types
• Is LVT Easy to Install?
• What Are the Downsides of LVT Flooring?
• Shop LVT Flooring at Luxury Flooring

What is LVT Flooring Made Of?

LVT flooring is built from several carefully designed layers that work together to make it durable and comfortable. Many LVT floors are embossed with textures that mimic the natural feel of wood grains or stone finishes.

Backing Layer: This forms the base of the floor and is the thickest part. It gives structure and stability to the LVT, but it also helps absorb sound and gives comfort underfoot.

Design Layer: With a high-quality, photo-realistic print, the design layer mimics the look of natural materials and is where the true beauty of LVT comes into play.

Clear Layer: This adds durability as it protects the floor from deeper damage, like rips or tears.

Protective Wear Layer: The top layer shields the LVT against everyday surface damage like scratches and scuffs.

Benefits of LVT Flooring 

There are many advantages to having luxury vinyl tiles in your home. It’s why they’re so popular!

Waterproof: All of our LVTs are waterproof, making them perfect for kitchens, bathrooms, and even utility spaces.

Scratch & Stain Resistant: Built to last, our luxury vinyl flooring stands up to busy homes with pets and children running around.

Comfortable & Warm: Softer underfoot than tiles or stone, our Luxury Vinyl Tiles are compatible with underfloor heating and most are fitted with a comfy built-in underlay.

Low Maintenance: Perhaps the biggest advantage is how easy LVT floors are to clean and maintain. A simple sweep or vacuum and the occasional mopping will keep it looking great for years to come.

Affordable Alternative: LVT flooring replicates the beauty of natural materials without the higher cost or upkeep.

Types of LVT Flooring

There are several styles of LVT to suit a wide variety of needs and budgets, each with its own strengths. 

Click-Fit LVT: This DIY-friendly Luxury Vinyl Tile is easy to install with a simple locking mechanism.  

Glue-Down: These LVTs are glued directly onto the subfloor with a long-lasting adhesive.

SPC Rigid Core: Stone Plastic Composite (SPC) vinyl flooring is great for busy areas as its rigid core boasts impressive strength and stability.

Herringbone & Parquet LVT: These vinyl floors replicate the beautiful patterns parquet has to offer, such as herringbone and chevron.

With Attached Underlay: Some of our LVTs come with the underlay already attached, offering extra cushioning underfoot and creating less hassle when it comes to installation.

LVT vs Other Flooring Types

LVT vs Laminate: LVT is 100% waterproof, which makes it better suited for kitchens and bathrooms, while laminate can swell with moisture.

LVT vs Vinyl Sheet & Lino: Older-style sheet vinyl tends to look fake, especially when compared to LVT, which offers a more premium and realistic appearance.

LVT vs Real Wood & Stone: Wood and stone effect LVTs are more affordable, easier to maintain and simpler to install, while still capturing the beauty of natural materials

Is LVT Easy to Install?

There are two ways to lay luxury vinyl tiles: floating floor and glued-down.

The floating floor method is where the planks or tiles are joined to each other, instead of the subfloor. This method works for our click-fit LVTs and is easy to install, regardless of whether you’re a beginner or a DIY expert.

The glued-down method, on the other hand, is a bit more complicated. Here, adhesive is applied directly to the subfloor and the individual boards are laid on top. We recommend hiring a professional for glued-down installations, as the level of preparation and precision can be time-consuming and leaves little room for mistakes.

You also need to make sure the subfloor is properly prepared, no matter which installation method you go with. After removing the old floor, make sure the surface is clean, dry and level. It’s also best to check that any screws or nails are flush with the surface. Concrete and wooden subfloors are suitable for LVT flooring.

What Are the Downsides of LVT Flooring?

Like most floors, Luxury Vinyl Tiles do have a few downsides. Most of these issues are easily avoided!

LVT flooring is incredibly durable, but it can dent or tear if heavy furniture is dropped on it or dragged across it. To prevent this, it’s a good idea to place felt pads under furniture legs and remember to lift pieces instead of dragging them.

Like most types of flooring, LVT needs a smooth subfloor. Otherwise, the floor may become damaged. So make sure your subfloor is carefully prepared before installing your LVT.

It’s also important to remember that while our Luxury Vinyl Tiles look and feel real, they are made from synthetic materials. This means they don’t have the same natural authenticity as real wood.

Shop LVT Flooring at Luxury Flooring

Ready to explore LVT for your home? Get in touch with our friendly flooring experts! They’ll be happy to answer your questions and can point you towards our unlimited free LVT samples. 

Don’t forget to follow us on Instagram and TikTok, where you can keep up to date with all the latest news, blog posts and helpful tips. Tag us on Instagram at #MyLuxuryFloor and mention us on TikTok @luxuryflooringfurnishing.

The post What is LVT Flooring? appeared first on Blog & Advice Centre – Luxury Flooring.

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The main difference between vinyl and linoleum flooring is that vinyl is a synthetic product made from plastic, whereas lino is a natural flooring material. 

Vinyl is versatile, budget-friendly and waterproof, while lino is eco-friendly, long-lasting and made from sustainable materials.

 Jump To:

• What Is Lino (Linoleum) Flooring?
• Vinyl vs Lino: Key Differences
• How Much Does Vinyl Flooring Cost Compared to Lino?
• What is the Lifespan of Vinyl and Lino Flooring?
• Is Vinyl or Lino Better for Kitchens and Bathrooms?
• How Do They Look?
• Which Is Easier to Install?
• Which Is Easier to Keep Clean?
• Can You Put Vinyl Over Lino?
• How Can You Tell the Difference Between Vinyl and Lino Flooring?
• Get Social

What Is Lino (Linoleum) Flooring?

Linoleum flooring, often called lino, has been used in homes for decades. It’s made from linseed oil, cork dust, wood flour and resins that are pressed onto a jute or canvas backing.

Because of its natural composition, lino is fully biodegradable, recyclable and free from harmful chemicals. This makes it one of the most eco-friendly flooring choices available. While its popularity peaked in the mid-20th century, it remains a niche option today for those seeking sustainability.

Vinyl vs Lino: Key Differences

Feature	Vinyl Flooring	Lino Flooring
Composition	PVC and synthetic layers	Natural oils, wood flour, cork, resins
Appearance	Wide range of wood and stone designs with realistic textures	Rich colours, matte finish, patterned sheets
Cost	£10-£30 per m², click LVT is higher	£25-£50 per m², requires professional fitting
Durability	Up to 25 years with proper care	Up to 40 years with proper maintenance and sealing
Water Resistance	Fully waterproof	Water-resistant
Installation	Click options are DIY-friendly, glued-down is best left to professionals	Best done by professional fitters
Maintenance	Simple to clean with a quick sweep or vacuum and the occasional mop	Requires occasional resealing, use mild cleaners only
Eco-Friendly Credentials	Harder to recycle	Biodegradable, recyclable, low VOCs
Comfort & Heat	Softer underfoot and underfloor heating compatible.	Firm underfoot, naturally heat resistant, may yellow in strong sunlight
Commercial Use	Popular for homes and commercial spaces due to durability and waterproof properties	Favoured in schools and hospitals for hygiene and resilience, but it’s less commonly used nowadays.

 

Credit: Adobe Stock

 How Much Does Vinyl Flooring Cost Compared to Lino?

Typically, vinyl flooring costs between £10-£30 per m², with click luxury vinyl tiles sitting at the higher end. Our range of LVTs tend to start around £23.99m², rising to £49.99m². Keep an eye out for our sales to catch them at a lower price! You can also save on installation costs with click-fit vinyl as it’s DIY-friendly.

Lino flooring tends to cost more, ranging from £25-£50 per m² and it requires professional installation, which adds to the overall costs. However, lino does have a longer lifespan with the right care, helping to balance the upfront costs.

 

Credit: @bungalow_bricks

What is the Lifespan of Vinyl and Lino Flooring?

Vinyl flooring typically lasts up to 25 years with the right care and maintenance, but this can depend on the thickness of the wear layer. 

Lino flooring can last up to 40 years with proper sealing and care. Plus, it’s naturally resistant to heat and indentation.

Is Vinyl or Lino Better for Kitchens and Bathrooms?

Vinyl is better for kitchens and bathrooms thanks to it being 100% waterproof. Lino, on the other hand, isn’t recommended as it’s only water-resistant and requires sealing in moisture-prone areas.

How Do They Look?

Vinyl flooring is available in endless designs, from rustic oak planks to sleek stone effect tiles. It’s capable of realistically mimicking natural materials, while staying low-maintenance and budget-friendly.

Lino flooring is available in bold colours and retro-inspired patterns. Its colour runs through the material, so it won’t fade or wear away. However, it has fewer options than vinyl does.

Which Is Easier to Install?

Vinyl flooring is known to be the easier option to install because of its popular click-fit system, which is designed to be a DIY-friendly way to lay luxury vinyl tiles. However, the glued-down method is a bit more complicated as it requires more precision and preparation, so it’s best to leave glued-down vinyl to the professionals.

Lino flooring usually comes in large sheet rolls that need to be cut precisely, which can be challenging for DIYers, so it’s best left to professional fitters.

Which Is Easier to Keep Clean?

Vinyl flooring is very easy to maintain, all it needs is a quick sweep and mop to keep it squeaky clean. Whereas lino needs resealing every now and then as it can peel in areas with high moisture levels. You should also use mild cleaners to prevent any damage.

Can You Put Vinyl Over Lino?

You can install vinyl over existing lino as long as the surface is flat, clean and dry. Any unevenness needs to be levelled with a suitable underlay to prevent dents from coming through.

How Can You Tell the Difference Between Vinyl and Lino Flooring?

Vinyl usually has a printed pattern on the surface with a smooth, sometimes glossy, finish. 

Lino is thicker with colour running all the way through, meaning the design is visible through the material when it’s cut.

Get Social

Interested to learn more about vinyl flooring? Get in touch with our friendly flooring experts, they’ll be happy to answer your questions and can help you order your unlimited free samples. 

Don’t forget to follow us on Instagram and TikTok, where you can keep up to date with all the latest news, blog posts and helpful tips. Tag us on Instagram at #MyLuxuryFloor and mention us on TikTok @luxuryflooringfurnishing.

 

 

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From advice on pet-friendly flooring to TikTok cleaning hacks, everyone has an opinion on flooring, spreading misinformation and leading to confusion over what works best.

And who knows? Some of these myths might even be holding you back from finding the perfect floor for your home.

In this blog, we’re going to set the record straight and debunk some of the most common flooring myths.

General Flooring Myths

You can install any floor in any room 

This risky misconception would make life more convenient if it were true. Different rooms have unique needs, so some floors fit these demands better. 

For example, it’s not a good idea to install wood flooring in bathrooms as water can cause it to warp. But luxury vinyl tiles are perfect for moisture-prone spaces thanks to their water-resistance. 

When choosing a floor, consider how busy the space is, its purpose, and the moisture levels.

All flooring is pet-friendly

Floors are sturdy and can usually hold up against pets. But some materials resist scratches, spills, and stains better than others. Consider scratch-resistant finishes or even a brushed finish, which help hide scratches. Waterproof options, such as SPC vinyl flooring, are a big help when it comes to pets as well. 

Dark floors make a room look smaller

There’s some truth to this myth, but it comes down to how you use the space around dark flooring. Bright walls, along with natural and artificial light, makes a room feel sophisticated and spacious. 

Ice mopping is the new cleaning hack

Social media is a great source of inspiration, but it leads to questionable trends that do more damage than good. The ice-mopping hack avoids hot, soapy water. Instead, it uses cold, icy water mixed with cleaning products. This combination is thought to “shock germs.” 

But cold water doesn’t destroy germs and using ice cubes is completely unnecessary. We recommend cleaning your floor with the appropriate cleaning products listed in the manufacturer’s guide, with minimal warm water. Don’t forget that excess moisture can damage your floor as well, causing it to warp or lift over time. 

Wood Flooring Myths

It’s expensive 

Wood flooring might seem like a big investment at first glance, but there’s more to it. Thanks to its impressive lifespan and hardwearing nature, wood flooring is a smart, long-term option for your home.

While solid wood can be pricey, engineered wood is a more affordable alternative that doesn’t compromise on looks. You get the natural beauty of real wood, with a stable core that enhances its durability. So it might not be the cheapest option upfront, but it’s a cost-effective choice that’s built to last. 

It’s high-maintenance

One of the biggest myths about wood flooring is that it needs a lot of maintenance. You only need to sweep or vacuum your floor once or twice a week and use a damp mop every once in a while. This will keep dirt and debris from building up.

The idea that wood flooring is high maintenance likely stems from having to sand and refinish it. But this isn’t something you need to do regularly. In fact, with the right care, you shouldn’t need to refinish or sand your floor for a few years. 

Use a walnut to remove scratches

This myth is a tricky one to bust because it’s not entirely false. Many people online say rubbing a walnut on a wood floor scratch will fix it. But it’s not that simple. The natural oils in the walnut can help hide superficial scratches, but they won’t remove a scratch. 

For minor surface scratches, touch-up pens or wood oils designed for flooring are more reliable than walnuts. For deeper scratches, try wax fillers. If the damage is really bad, it’s better to seek professional help.

LVT Flooring Myths

Looks cheap and fake

The word “vinyl” comes with outdated connotations of rolls of flimsy sheet vinyl. Modern technology has helped luxury vinyl tiles (LVT) stand out in the flooring market. While they might lack the authenticity of natural materials, they feature high-quality imagery that’s able to realistically mimic them. Many people can’t tell the difference between wood-effect luxury vinyl floor tiles and engineered wood flooring. 

It must be expensive if it’s luxury

Luxury often means expensive, but that’s not true for luxury vinyl tiles,  which are budget-friendly. Luxury, in this case, refers to the appearance and performance of LVT flooring (just like it does with our name, Luxury Flooring!)

LVT is invincible  

While some people don’t think LVT flooring is durable, others believe it’s invincible. After all, LVT floor tiles are incredibly resilient with their waterproof and scratch-resistant properties. But its durability only goes so far if it isn’t being looked after. For example, dragging heavy furniture or using harsh cleaners can cause long-term damage. Plus, water-resistance can only do so much, so make sure to wipe up any standing water as quickly as possible. 

LVT isn’t invincible, but it’s tough and, like any flooring, it performs best when cared for properly. 

Laminate Flooring Myths 

Looks fake

This might’ve been the case a decade or so ago, but modern laminate flooring is a different story. Today’s laminates look like real wood or stone and have textured surfaces and authentic finishes. Thanks to design and manufacturing advances, these laminates cost much less than natural materials.

Lemons can make your laminate floor shine 

Cleaning hacks continue to move off-screen and into homes, leading to expensive fixes. Using lemons to shine your laminate is a risky hack. It often leads to problems, just like using vinegar as a cleaning remedy. Lemon juice is acidic. It can strip the finish and harm the protective layer of your laminate flooring. 

Isn’t durable

Another common misconception about laminate flooring is its lack of durability. Laminate has a tough top layer that stands up to daily wear. It’s a smart choice for busy spaces such as the hallway.

Get Social

Still curious about what’s true when it comes to flooring? Get in touch with our friendly flooring experts, they’ll be happy to answer your questions and can even help you choose your unlimited free samples. 

Don’t forget to follow us on Instagram and TikTok, where you can keep up to date with all the latest news, blog posts and helpful tips. Tag us on Instagram at #MyLuxuryFloor and mention us on TikTok @luxuryflooringfurnishing.

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Blackgum, also called black tupelo, tupelo gum, or just tupelo, is a tree that loves to grow in water and water-soaked soils. In fact, the genus Nyssa is the name of a water nymph. The tree grows throughout the eastern states, from Maine to Texas. Tupelo, Mississippi, (Elvis’ birthplace) was named after this tree. 

A close relative is water tupelo (Nyssa aquatica) which has nearly the same characteristics. Honey from water tupelo is highly prized. The tree in the forest is often 3 feet in diameter and 80 feet tall. Some of the trees are more than 400 years old. 

Unlike most trees, tupelo trees are either male or female, with flowers being abundant on the female trees. It is not unusual for the larger, older tree to be hollow due to decay fungi; yet the tree can live with this condition for hundreds of years.

The wood itself is characterized by interlocked grain (the grain swirls every which way), which leads to warp when drying, warping in use when the MC changes, and difficulty when machining. 

In the past, blackgum was used for oxen yokes and chopping bowls due to the toughness resulting from the interlocked grain. Today, although this is not an outstandingly beautiful appearing species, it still is widely used for furniture, cabinets, caskets, and railroad ties. Carvers of duck decoys also appreciate this wood. 

Processing suggestions and characteristics
Weight: Blackgum has a dry specific gravity (SG) of 0.52. The weight, when dry, is 32 pounds per cubic foot or about 2.6 pounds per board foot.

Strength: For dry wood, the ultimate strength (MOR) is 9,600 psi, stiffness (MOE) is 1.20 million psi, and hardness is 810 pounds. Interlocked grain means that splitting is very difficult. Nailing is also difficult, as the interlocked grain wants to change the nail’s direction. Pre-boring holes for nails and screws can be helpful.

Drying and stability: The wood dries with considerable difficulty due to warp, especially twisting. End coating is suggested, even with 4/4 stock. Shrinkage in drying is moderate. Overall shrinkage from green to 6 percent MC is 6.2 percent tangentially (the width in flatsawn lumber) and 3.5 percent radially (the thickness of flatsawn lumber). Once dried, the wood does move slightly if there are large RH changes or if the MC is not matched to the environment’s EMC conditions. A typical, desired, final moisture range is 6.0 to 7.5 percent MC. Once dry, it takes a 4.5 percent MC change to result in 1 percent size change tangentially and 8 percent MC change radially.

Machining and gluing: This wood machines moderately well, with some chipped grain due to the interlocked grain. If over-dried, the wood appears to be quite brittle. Sharp tools are essential. This wood glues without much difficulty if surfaces are perfectly flat. However, if the MC changes and the pieces warp a small amount, it is difficult to obtain high-strength joints.

Grain and color: The wood, which is mostly heartwood, is grayish brown to a light brown with hints of yellow at times. The finished surface is smooth, but without natural luster. Quartersawn blackgum exhibits a very attractive figure. The wood is odorless. However, if the tree is bacterially infected, sawn wood will have a putrid odor which is noticeable in wood products, especially when the humidity is high.

This post appeared first on http://www.woodworkingnetwork.com

We’re delighted to share that our ‘Elgin Farmhouse Engineered Oak’ has been announced as a winner in Ideal Home’s Living Room Awards for 2025. 

Your living room is one of the most important parts of your home.  A space to gather with family and friends to relax and enjoy each other’s company, it needs to be durable and versatile enough to be used daily while remaining aesthetically appealing and stylish.

And that’s where our ‘Best Flooring’ winner comes into play!

Elgin Farmhouse Engineered Oak 

Designed with durability in mind, our Elgin Farmhouse Oak is a stunning floor with warm rustic planks. The brushed and oiled finish preserves the character and natural beauty of the wood, protecting the surface from the chaos of kids, pets and daily life. 

And we’re not just saying this! 

Laurie Davidson, interior stylist and co-founder of Style Makers, said that our Elgin Farmhouse Oak is: “a timeless flooring choice that brings a natural look to the home. Engineered oak is hardwearing, so is perfectly suitable for family life in a busy home. And the 25-year guarantee is pretty good”. 

Painswick Biscuit Engineered Oak

We’re also proud to share that our elegant Painswick Biscuit Engineered Oak has been highly commended for Ideal Home’s ‘Best Kitchen Flooring’ award.

This light engineered wood floor is perfect for modern and contemporary homes, with natural knots and grains highlighted in each plank. Not only is it full of character but this stylish herringbone is a timeless, durable choice for any room, including the kitchen. 

Get Social

Want to take a closer look at these Ideal Home-approved floors? Get in touch with our friendly flooring experts, they’ll point you towards our unlimited free samples. 

Don’t forget to follow us on Instagram and TikTok, where you can keep up to date with all the latest news, blog posts and helpful tips. Tag us on Instagram at #MyLuxuryFloor and mention us on TikTok @luxuryflooringfurnishing.

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Redwood (Sequoia sempervirens) is a wonderful evergreen species, with mature trees commonly reaching 300 feet high and 12 feet in diameter. (Giant sequoia is even larger and is a different species.) 

In North America, redwood grows primarily in California. Although much of the California redwood forests have been harvested or are now reserved, there are still good supplies, albeit expensive, of redwood logs available from replanted forests, sometimes called second growth, both here in California and in New Zealand. In fact, in New Zealand redwood trees grow so rapidly that within 50 years they are gigantic and ready for harvest. Interestingly, for such a large tree, the cones are scarcely 1 inch in length!

The wood itself, which is mostly heartwood, is lightweight and even grained. It is very red appearing, although second growth may be somewhat lighter in color and in weight. I believe the key properties of redwood lumber that have made it so popular are its low shrinkage (meaning good paintability, little warp in use, and so on) and its natural decay and insect resistance. There are more than 30 lumber grades for redwood lumber.

In addition to sawing logs into lumber, there is also active manufacturing processes using old timers and old lumber that is remanufactured into products for today. 

Some old-growth redwood logs are available from forests where the trees have been blown down. 

Redwood veneer products are also popular, although only a little redwood is used, with the core veneers being a more available for lumber production at times.

Processing suggestions and characteristics
Density. Redwood weighs about 23 pounds per cubic foot.That’s about 1-1/2 pounds per board foot, kiln-dried and surfaced.
Drying. Drying requires care to avoid severe end splits and collapse. Slow careful drying is the rule, with end coating being essential. With older growth, water pockets and areas of collapse are common. Shrinkage from green to 10 % MC is only about 3 percent. Final moisture contents can be 10-12 % MC.

Gluing and machining. Redwood glues very easily. The open structure requires a little more adhesive than with heavier woods. Avoid excessive pressure. Machining is excellent if tools are sharp. Sharp sandpaper is also important using light pressure.

Stability. Low shrinkage means the wood is very stable when the MC changes in use. This means low warp in-use. It also means that when painted, there will be little stress on the paint film, so paint will adhere and last for years. 

Strength. Its strength (MOR) is approximately 7,900 psi, which is a little weaker than Eastern white pine (8,600 psi). Its stiffness (MOE) is 1.1 million psi. Hardness is 420 pounds.

Color and grain. Redwood is almost all heartwood, which is very red in color. The outer rings of the tree are white sapwood, but little of this is included in lumber. Typically, the wood is soft and fine grained. The grain is straight and not as distinctive as with most pines.

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When it comes to choosing the perfect flooring for your home, two popular contenders often top the list: laminate flooring and LVT (Luxury Vinyl Tile) flooring. Manufacturers vary however we choose the highest rated LVT and laminate suppliers. Both offer stunning visuals, excellent durability, and cost-effective alternatives to hardwood. But which one is right for… Read More

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There are two trees, hackberry (Celtis occidentalis) and sugarberry (Celtis laevigata), that produce the lumber known as hackberry. That is, in the trade, the names hackberry and sugarberry are used interchangeably. Sometimes the lumber from these species is called sugar hackberry. We will use the name hackberry here, but we will be referring to both species. 

The species grows from North Dakota to Texas to North Caroline to Quebec, but the Southern states seem to have the best supply. Trees are often over 100 feet tall, although 75 feet is more common. The berries are edible, but because they are so high, the birds have their feast before they can be harvested.

Hackberry is a lumber species that does not stand on its own too often. Rather, it has been used as a substitute for red oak, ash or elm. Indeed, hackberry has strong grain and porous structure, so it is quite similar to these other three species.

Perhaps the greatest detriment to using hackberry is that it stains (fungal stains and chemical enzymatic oxidation gray stains) very quickly. Logs that have been held in warm weather or lumber that have not been promptly stacked and dried aggressively right after sawing will almost always have high staining risk. 

Careless lumber producers will produce mostly “paint grade” hackberry because of the stain. However, with reasonable care, hackberry is a beautiful wood, worth the high prices paid for the better grades of ash and elm. It certainly makes fine furniture and cabinets, but does not get as much use as “show wood” as I think it should. As the TV ad says: “Try it; you’ll like it!” 

Processing suggestions and characteristics
Density. Hackberry has a density of approximately 35 pounds per cubic foot. Hackberry KD lumber weighs about 3 pounds per board foot at 7 percent MC.

Drying. The wood is very prone to staining if not handled and dried promptly. Using initial temperature in the kiln of 115F with very low initial humidities also helps to produce lighter colors. A weak solution of oxalic acid (wood bleach) will remove most of the enzymatic stain on the surface of dry lumber or parts, rough or sanded. Hackberry has 7% shrinkage from green to 6 percent MC.

Gluing and machining. Hackberry glues fairly easily. The wood machines easily. If over-dried, chipped grain may be encountered.

Stability. Hackberry has a 1-percent size change in width (or tangentially) for flatsawn lumber for each 3.4 percent MC change and 1 percent thickness change (radially) for a 6 percent MC change. 

Strength. The strength (MOR) at 12 percent MC is 11,500 psi, the stiffness (MOE) is 1.19 million psi, and the hardness is 880 pounds.

Color and grain. This species is ring porous, so it has a region of large pores at the beginning of every ring, just like oak, ash, and elm. The sapwood is typically pale yellow. The heartwood, which often is not present, is yellowish gray or yellowish-brown. The wood can be finished naturally (I think it has excellent, attractive appearance when done “au natural.”) or it can be stained to closely resemble oak, ash and elm.

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