Mar 14, 2019 admin Uncategorized

How much does it cost to install Laminate Flooring?

Standard fitting cost for a laminate is between £8 – £12 per square meter.

When pricing the cost of installing laminate flooring, sometimes you can be in for an unexpected surprise. The cost of the actual work of installing the floor can actually rival the price of the floor itself.

Crazy, right?

Laminate flooring can be picked up for as low as less than £6.50 per square meter, but a standard installation could cost anywhere between £8 to £12 per metre squared. Most fitters will charge per metre squared, while others will charge a daily rate – generally around £150.

Most fitters or installation companies offer a free, no obligation estimation service so it is advised that you get a few quotes to compare prices before making your decision. There is also a multiple of different fitting systems for laminate floors, so ensure that your floor fitter is familiar with these before proceeding. You will be able to find the type of fitting system

If you’re looking for a fitter, try having a look at MyBuilder, where local tradesmen can quote you prices and compete for your business, ensuring you get the best deal with well reviewed and legitimate floorers.

Choosing the best fitter to install your laminate floor

The fitter will usually expect the room to be cleared of furniture, so they can get easy access to the floor. Don’t expect them to clear the room for you. Your old floor will then be torn up and disposed of, and the cost of the removal and disposal may be passed onto you. For this reason, it might be a good idea to pull up the floor and dispose of it yourself beforehand, to save some precious pennies. The fitter will ensure your subfloor is sound before installing underlay and then fitting your laminate and accessories.

What’s underlay? We can help with that too. Check out our guide as to Why Should You Underlay Your Floor? We also take you through what underlay goes best with each floor type and subfloor type.

Fitters will put a mark-up on the accessories required to fit the floor such as underlay, scotia and door bars, For this reason, you’re better off buying everything beforehand and having it good to go. It’ll also save any costs if the fitter has to hang around longer or has to order accessories and come back on a different day. We’ve got great prices on everything you’ll need right here at Discount Flooring Depot, so why not order with us?

Our ever-popular Euphoria Dark Flensburg Oak. Would you believe this is a laminate?

If you’re not sure what accessories you need, give us a call and speak to a member of our experienced customer service team who knows enough about floors that it’s kind of depressing. They’re happy to help wherever possible, and love to chat about flooring more than anything else in the world.

Okay, maybe not. But they really know their stuff. You can also use our call back request to save your minutes, and we’ll call you as soon as we can.

Advances in laminate flooring technology and the introduction of ‘click fit’ installation systems has lead to laminate becoming a popular DIY product. More and more, average Joes and Janes who aren’t superhero fitters are saving bags of cash by installing the flooring themselves. A laminate installation kit works wonders here, as does following step by step installation guides.

Need More Help? Talk To Us!

Check out our guide, Why Should You Underlay Your Floor? For advice on why underlay is vital and choosing the right one for the right floor and subfloor.

Have a look at one of our step by step installation guides.

Email us: [email protected]

Call us on 0844 8118 292 or Whatsapp us on 07789 596773

Or request a call back!

This post appeared first on https://www.discountflooringdepot.co.uk

Mar 13, 2019 admin Uncategorized

Our Top Oak Laminate Flooring

There are many benefits to laminate flooring options over solid and engineered wood flooring. One of the main benefits is that it is a cheaper flooring option. Our oak laminate flooring starts from as little as £7.99 per square meter (don’t worry we can also work in square feet).

Laminate floors are more resistant to scratches, moisture and general wear and tear. This also makes it easier to clean as well. While real wood Oak flooring is desired for its character and texture of deep knots and elaborate grain. The technology in creating oak laminate flooring has advanced dramatically in recent years.

This has lead to the laminate flooring having a similar texture and appearance to real wood flooring. So our oak laminate flooring emulates the effect of real oak floors without the cost, installation difficulties, or maintenance issues of real wood floors.

We have a huge range of quality Oak laminate flooring options. From the ever-popular grey oak to natural oak parquet, we have quality laminate flooring that will make any house a home. These laminate floors are also suited for underfloor heating and are fitted with an easy click system.

Our most popular Oak Laminate Floors

Our Signature Collection of laminate flooring in a Natural Oak and Light Oak Parquet effect is ideally suited for a reserved living area. This is one of our most popular floors thanks to its herringbone finish. This gives you the look of a parquet floor without the hassle.

Signature 8mm Herringbone. Natural Oak Parquet

Grey Oak effect laminate flooring is an extremely popular flooring design. This laminate floor has an extremely realistic appearance of aged hardwood flooring. With its rich smoked tones and natural grain appearance, this laminate floor is perfect for your hallway, dining or living room.

Sydney – 7mm Laminate Flooring – Grey Oak

This stunning Premier Select 8mm Oak Laminate flooring is perfect in its modern grey colour tones. This shade of grey is perfect for creating a modern look to your space and is a quality flooring option for those who favour a contemporary look.

Premier Select – 8mm Laminate Flooring – Modern Grey Oak

All of these cheap floorings are available for free samples.

What Laminate Oak Flooring is right for my home?

With such a huge range of oak laminate flooring available it can be difficult to know what will be best for your home. The two most popular options, however, are Grey Oak Laminate and Natural Oak Laminate flooring.

Grey Oak Laminate Flooring

Grey oak laminate flooring is available in light and dark shades. The light grey flooring is a wonderful way to let some light into your home. The light shade helps to reflect natural light and can help make a smaller space look much bigger and brighter.

The darker a floor the more difficult it is to keep clean as they show up dirt very easily. That is why we would recommend a mid to dark grey rather than a black laminate floor. Dark grey floors can create a modern and contemporary look in your home. They pair well with both light and dark coloured furniture.

Natural Oak Laminate Flooring

If your room has a little less square meterage than you would like a light coloured floor can create the illusion of space. The lighter laminate flooring also masks dirt and damage better as well. Lighter wood floors are better suited for homes with a more traditional design.

How do I clean my laminate floor?

You’ve got yourself a gorgeous new laminate, freshly installed and looking the part in your home. Everything is fine and dandy until someone (who shall remain nameless) spills a glass of wine or a cup tea on the floor.

Especially when they do it at least once a week. At that point, how do you keep your shiny new laminate looking in tip-top shape? Even more importantly, how can you protect it from scrapes and scratches that’ll inevitably appear in a busy house, especially when its full of kids and pets?

Make sure to check out our guide here and have a look at our flooring products that will help keep your laminate looking good!

This post appeared first on https://www.discountflooringdepot.co.uk

Feb 28, 2019 admin Uncategorized

Colourful motifs and abstract patterns

Mediterranean tiles

Colourful motifs and abstract patterns…

Inspired by traditional Moroccan tiles our laminate Mediterranean collection makes a practical flooring option.

The influence of Morocco’s position in North Africa, boarding the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean, is prevalent through its local art and design. With cobalt and saffron being reminiscent of the of the oceans and sweeping deserts. While the epic mountain ranges and ancient medinas have inspired travellers for centuries.

Originating in Morocco in the 10th century the original tiles were in subdued hues of white and grey. The pattern features geometric triangles, diamonds and delicate fauna. This is due to the representation of living beings being increasingly prohibited in Islamic tradition from the 9th century. As the style developed rich colours soon became the most popular option. There was an emphasis on cobalt and saffron being used as kitchen and bathroom walls.

The patchwork appearance of the traditional hand laid tiles is replicated in our flooring through the misaligned pattern and grout. This will also ensure that your floor will be unique to your home once laid. Each laminate piece is finished with a smooth surface to give a sleek look, reminiscent of natural stone tiling.

At the centre point between east and west, north and south Morocco’s architecture and interior design are influenced by its European and African neighbours. This results in amazingly vivid prints and patterns, with a strong focus on feature walls and mosaic tiles.

Moroccan decor is perfect for adding bohemian flair to your decor. The bright and carefree style is perfect for homes in the United Kingdom as it adds much-needed colour during winter. The use of lively colours, intricate details and texture can be found throughout walls and floors in Moroccan interior design. This is perhaps one of the easiest ways to introduce Moroccan style elements to your home. Think mosaic patterns, lantern-style lamps and textured throw pillows.

View our full Meditteranean collection now

This post appeared first on https://www.discountflooringdepot.co.uk

Jan 24, 2019 admin Uncategorized

California black oak

California black oak (Quercus kelloggii) is in the red oak group of species, but its source of supply (It grows primarily in northern California and southwest Oregon), physical properties (It is weaker than most red oaks, but machines better), appearance (It is not as red, but has tighter grain), and processing differences (Drying is difficult) merit a special discussion of this species.

The tree reaches maturity in 90 years or longer. At that age it is 50 to 100 feet high and 14 to 40 inches in diameter; the larger sizes are when the tree is growing on good sites. On poor sites, the tree is quite scrubby in appearance. The acorns were widely used as a food by Native Americans, often being dried and ground into flour. Unfortunately, many of the California black oak trees have died in recent years due to a fungal disease, commonly called “Sudden Oak Death.”

This species of red oak, also called Kellogg oak and western red oak, and in its growth area is called black oak, is tremendously underutilized. I believe that much of the reason for this underutilization is that too many people tried to use softwood drying equipment and techniques to dry this very refractory (which means prone to surface checking and cracking) wood. (California black oak is much more likely to check in drying than northern and Appalachian red oaks.) The drying results were disastrous. However, with proper “Southern red oak” drying procedures and conditions, this oak can be dried without much defect development.

Another reason for underutilization is the scarcity of NHLA trained graders in the area; the NHLA grading scheme is one of the marketing keys for any hardwood.

Finally, the typical mill supply of logs produces 38 percent No. 1 Common and Better lumber; this is marginally low and will require good markets for the lower grades in order for the sawmill to be profitable. In fact, some mills have developed proprietary grades for so-called “low grade” material; in reality, low grade is a valuable raw material for many manufacturers. Oregon State’s Wood Innovation Center can often provide technical assistance with processing this species.

The wood makes excellent lumber that is well suited for furniture, cabinets, and flooring. Developing special grading rules or adjusting the standard rules may prove to be rewarding.

Because there is not a well developed market, buyers must contact potential sawmills personally. Then try a few sample pieces of lumber that can be tested. Appreciate that most sawmills do not carry an inventory of this species, so may not be able to provide needed quantities year round. You may have to use lower grades than you are used to, or assist in locating users of lower grades if you only take the higher grade.

Processing and characteristics

Density

This is a fairly heavy wood, but is slightly lighter than eastern red oak. The green specific gravity (SG) is 0.61; at 6 percent MC, the SG is 0.67. The weight, when dried to 6 percent MC, is 39 pounds per cubic foot or 3.3 pounds per board foot.

Drying

As mentioned, the wood dries slowly and with a high risk of checking and honeycomb. Slow shed-air-drying with plastic mesh curtains to avoid excessively rapid drying conditions is essential. Kiln drying green-from-the-saw is also acceptable quality-wise, but is too expensive time-wise. End coating is also required to prevent end cracking. Other proper drying practices are essential. Most suppliers will sell only KD stock, rather than green. It is critical to check incoming stock for preexisting checking and honeycomb before accepting a load.

Staining of the sapwood from fungi and enzymatic oxidation of the sugars is common, especially when drying is too slow. Iron stain (a reaction of iron and tannic acid) is also seen.

Shrinkage in drying of 9.7 percent is lower than for eastern red oaks.

Gluing and Machining

This wood machines well, better than eastern red oaks, although being higher in density, it does require sharp tools and proper machine set-up to avoid chip-out. Avoid drying the lumber under 5.5 percent MC.

This wood, as with all higher density species, glues with considerable difficulty. Surfaces must be freshly prepared and flat to achieve satisfactory joints with conventional adhesives.

Stability

Once dried, the wood will move substantially, although less than eastern red oaks, if there are large RH changes or if the MC is not matched to the environment’s EMC conditions. A typical final MC range is 6.0 to 7.5 percent, unless used in a humid location. It takes a 4 percent MC change to result in 1 percent size change tangentially and 7 percent MC change radially.

Strength

Due to its moderately high density, California black oak’s strength and stiffness is high, although slightly weaker than eastern red oaks. For dry wood, the ultimate strength (MOR) is 13,000 psi and hardness is 1100 pounds. Comparative red oak values are 14,300 psi and 1290 pounds.

Color and Grain

The heartwood is tan with a reddish hue, but it is not as red as many other red oaks. Because of California black oak’s slow growth, the grain is finer than most southern and many eastern red oaks. The grain pattern in lumber from open grown trees can be erratic (full of character). Also, pin knots may be common in such trees.

The grain is coarse, with the large vessels that are common in red oak giving a rough grainy feel and appearance. Stain penetration is variable at times, giving a blotchy appearance; this is due to tension wood, which is common in open-grown trees especially.

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Dec 20, 2018 admin Uncategorized

Santos mahogany

Santos mahogany (scientific name: Myroxylon balsamum) is also called balsamo (English) and palo de balsamo (Central America) in the lumber business. Although this wood is not related to Honduran (or true) mahogany or to African mahogany, it is a rich dark mahogany colored wood and is actually a bit harder then Honduran mahogany. The wood has interlocked grain, which gives it a strong ribbon-like pattern.

The tree, which is in the legume family, is widespread, ranging from southern Mexico southward through Central American and continuing down to Argentina. Trees are usually short, 50 to 65 feet tall, and moderate in diameter, 18 to 36 inches. The typical log produces a large amount of knot-free lumber.

This tree is well known for the resin, called balsam or balsamo, that it produces. In fact, Sixteenth Century Spanish explorers shipped balsamo to Europe, where it was claimed to have extravagant medicinal properties. Indeed, the resin has a spicy aroma, somewhat similar to vanilla. Much of today’s resin production comes from in El Salvador, although plantings in Africa and Southeast Asia are now producing this resin as well. Today, the resin is used in salves, cough syrup flavorings and perfumes. When tapping the tree for the resin in the past, which required the bark to be scored deeply, the tree was severely injured and died. As a result, the availability of this excellent wood is quite limited, although it has been recently planted in plantations.

The hardness of this wood makes it ideal for flooring, although it is also sometimes used for furniture, interior trim, and turnery.

Processing suggestions and characteristics

Density. The density of this wood is quite high (around 60 pounds per cubic foot). In fact, at times some of the wood is heavier than water. A board foot of planed lumber (15/16 x 12 x 12 inches) will weigh about 4-3/4 pounds. This is roughly 30 percent heavier than oak.

Drying. The lumber will almost always be dried at the sawmill, rather than shipped green and dried in the U.S. In spite of this wood being so heavy, it reportedly dries without much difficulty. Shrinkage from green to 7 percent MC is only 4.6 percent tangentially (the width of a flatsawn piece of lumber) and 2.8 percent radially (the thickness of flatsawn lumber). These values are very low for a wood of this high density.

Gluing and Machining. The high density and some oiliness would make this wood somewhat difficult to glue with standard woodworking adhesives, but not as difficult as teak or other resinous woods. Surfaces should be prepared and glued within 15 minutes to achieve the best joint strength. It should not be necessary to clean the wood with a solvent before gluing in most cases, but for the strongest joint, this cleaning needs to be done.

It is reported to be moderately difficult to machine, as would be expected from its high density and its interlocked grain. Sharp tools and fresh sandpaper are essential for premium surfaces. Although it does not contain silica, nonetheless, tools seem to dull rapidly. The final machined surface has a high natural polish and luster.

Stability. For its density, the wood is exceptionally stable when exposed to humidity changes. It would take a 6 percent MC change to result in a 1 percent size change tangentially and 10 percent MC radially.

Strength. The ultimate strength (MOR) of this wood is 20,100 psi; the stiffness (MOE) is 2.4 million psi and the hardness is 2200 pounds. For comparison, red oak values are 14,300 psi, 1.8 million psi and 1,290 pounds.

Because of the density, all nails and screws must use pre-drilled holes (about 90 percent of the diameter of the fastener).

Color and Grain. Depending on the region where grown, Santos mahogany exhibits a range of color between light orange/brown with yellowish overtones to a dark reddish/purplish brown. Most of the lumber falls into the medium to dark orange/brown mahogany tone. There will be a slight muting of the color over time upon exposure to light. The interlocked grain gives a striped appearance especially on quartersawn grain, but not all pieces have heavy striping.

Overall, the grain is tight and fine textured with natural luster after machining and sanding.

Santos Mahogany has a strong scent when freshly cut. The scent quickly dissipates once it ages. However, this scent has been known to cause adverse respiratory reactions in some individuals. Therefore, avoid exposure to dust of this wood.

This post appeared first on http://www.woodworkingnetwork.com

Dec 19, 2018 admin Uncategorized

Lodgepole pine

Lodgepole pine (Pinus contorta) grows in the Rocky Mountains, from Alaska to northern New Mexico, in the Black Hills and on the Pacific Coast. Poles of this tree were used by Native Americans for structural supports for teepees and lodges; hence the common name of lodgepole.

Lodgepole pine trees are not very large. In the Rockies, they may reach 80 feet in height, but seldom exceed 14 inches in diameter. Oftentimes, lodgepole pine lumber and ponderosa pine lumber are grouped together. They are similar in processing and properties. Both are moderately strong softwoods, making them ideal for construction.

A special characteristic of this wood is that the tangential surface (the wide face of a flatsawn piece of lumber) has a multitude of dimples. These show up especially when the lighting is at an low angle or when the wood is stained. Ponderosa has very few dimples.

Historically, lodgepole pine has been used for railroad ties, mine timber, log cabins, furniture and cabinets, and a myriad of local uses. Today, knotty pine paneling is an important use, as well as cabinetry and millwork. Local uses are important as well.

Processing suggestions and characteristics

Density
The density of lodgepole pine is about 29 pounds per cubic foot at 10 percent MC. This means that a dried piece of lumber 1 inch x 6 inch x 10 feet (actual size ¾ inch x 5-1/2 inch x 10 feet) will weigh 8 pounds. This is about 15 percent heavier than eastern white pine, but is similar to ponderosa pine.

Drying
Drying is rapid, but the small trees and presence of compression wood mean that warp is often a possibility. Weighting the pile tops in drying is helpful, as well as good stacking and rapid drying. Blue stain can occur quickly, so storage of logs and of sawn lumber before drying must be very short during warm weather. For this reason, most lodgepole pine lumber will be dried at
the sawmilling site.

Gluing and Machining

Gluing is fairly easy. Resin exudations will interfere with gluing if drying is not done hot enough. Machining is moderately good. Certainly sharp tools are suggested. Avoid drying under 9 percent MC at all costs, as drier wood machines poorly.

Stability
Lodgepole pine is a little more stable than many common species, requiring a 5 percent MC change or greater for a 1 percent size change in the width of flatsawn lumber, and 8 percent MC change in quartersawn stock.

Strength
The strength (MOR) of lodgepole is 9400 psi; the stiffness (MOE) is 1.34 million psi; and the hardness is 480 pounds. Corresponding eastern white pine values are 8600 psi, 1.24 million psi, and 380 pounds. In other words, it is stronger, stiffer and harder than EWP. Ponderosa values are nearly identical (9400 psi, 1.29 million psi, and 460 pounds).

Color and Grain
The wood is straight grained, has a medium to fine texture and has pronounced dimples on the split, tangential surface.

The sapwood of lodgepole pine is nearly white to a pale yellow, while the heartwood is light yellow to a yellowish brown. In dried lumber, the sapwood and heartwood are not easily separated from each other.

Lodgepole pine has a pleasant resinous odor. Some people may find that pine dust and the aroma cause allergic reactions.

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Aug 30, 2018 admin Uncategorized

What you need to know about bamboo

Bamboo is not wood, but a grass with no woody material in its stem. But we are seeing more and more use of this grass in cabinets and as a substitute or adjunct to “good old, solid wood.” And I have seen some pretty good- looking bamboo items.

This grass that looks just like the bamboo fishing rods used by Huckleberry Finn and Tom Sawyer, only larger, is being harvested in a manner similar to trees. The round, hollow stem, with closed sections every foot or two, is sawn lengthwise into long narrow strips that are then made into rectangular-cross-section pieces that take out the curvature.

The strips are then edged glued together into veneer and glued into “plywood” panels that look similar to and behave much like wood. There is a growing list of active importers who bring bamboo products into North America.

Many species

There are more than 1,000 species of bamboo. The properties and appearance of the various bamboos varies greatly. This is where confusion lies as people tried one supplier’s material and liked it, but found a second supplier had a different product that did not work as well.

In short, not all bamboo is the same and, like wood, has many variations in appearance and properties from species to species. My advice is to know your supplier well.

Fast growing

The bamboo tree itself is very fast growing and, as such, promises to supply fiber needs in many parts of the world, especially tropical areas, where wood-based timber growing takes too long. A bamboo tree can reach 40 feet and over 6 inches in diameter within 4 years and can in a few more years, when growing conditions are good, reach a height of 90 feet and a diameter of nearly 2 feet (but it is still a hollow stem).

When harvested, the root system will send up sprouts which perpetuate the species with little human intervention. Some “wild” grass forests still persist today, although most stems are fairly small in diameter. In many parts of the world, bamboo is grown in managed plantations.

Properties of bamboo

The properties of the different bamboo species can vary greatly. For example, Calcutta bamboo has a stability when the humidity changes that is close to oak, but some bamboo varieties shrink and swell twice as much. Not all commercial bamboo lumber or plywood will have the desired properties and characteristics you need.

Make sure you talk to others who are using the same bamboo species from the same supplier that you will be using before you begin investing. Further, make sure that your supplier will not be changing species without your knowledge. Because of the potential for large movement of bamboo, you will have to pay particular attention to obtaining and maintaining the correct MC.

The piece of bamboo in the picture consists of long, narrow strips (about 1/8 inch in thickness and 1/4 inch wide) that are edge-glued together to form the 1/8 inch surface veneer.

A true picture

Most people believe that bamboo is very bendable and lightweight. However, bamboo products like the one pictured are actually as heavy (40 pounds per cubic foot) and as strong in bending as oak. The material is easy to cut and fasten with metal fasteners or adhesives. (I prefer a good PUR adhesive.)

As consumers begin to ask more and more for bamboo, we will have to learn to work with this grass, even though most of us have sawdust in our veins. Careful purchasing, handling and moisture monitoring assure us that we will not have any major problems adding bamboo to our repertoire.

Processing suggestions and characteristics

For the purposes of this article, the properties listed are for Calcutta bamboo (Dendrocalamus strictus), which is the most common bamboo in the Indian forest, making it a very important species in India and other Asian tropical countries.

Density

The density of bamboo is about 40 pounds per cubic foot, which is similar to oak. As the bamboo panels will be 100 percent bamboo, they will be slightly heavier than an oak plywood panel of similar thickness, as most oak plywood uses a lower density species for the interior plies.

Drying

Bamboo will always be dried at the site of manufacturing. Drying is not difficult. Shrinkage in drying is similar to oak, but there is little difference between radial and tangential shrinkage.

Gluing and Machining

Calcutta bamboo (and many other bamboos) do glue well when making a laminated product. The high density does mean that surfaces must be well prepared. It may take some experimentation to determine the best glue spread rates. My personal feeling is that a PUR adhesive is an excellent choice for the furniture and cabinet shops when gluing pieces of bamboo.

Machining of bamboo is reported to be very good, but again there will be variation when the species change. I could not find any allergic reactions from contact with the bamboo dust in the literature.

Stability

The relationship between relative humidity and moisture content for Calcutta bamboo is nearly identical to the standard tables used for wood in North America. Further, the shrinkage is similar to oak, with a 3 percent MC change resulting in a 1 percent size change. However, shrinkage and swelling are essentially the same in the radial and tangential directions (across the grain directions). Therefore, end checking is a risk, but is moderated by using cross-laminated plywood construction. In short, bamboo must be handled carefully when it comes to storage humidities and moisture issues, just like oak and other fine woods. As most bamboo will come from a humid, tropical location, some drying in our North American environments can be expected. It would be prudent to expose the bamboo to the drier environment, especially in the wintertime, to avoid shrinkage in a finished product.

Lengthwise (longitudinally), this bamboo species does not shrink or swell appreciably, just like wood.

(Caution: Some bamboo products being sold are very unstable with MC changes…know the material you are working with.)

Strength

The strength (MOR) ranges from 12,000 to 22,000 psi, which is a bit higher than red oak The stiffness is 1.1 to 2.9 million psi, which is again a bit higher than oak.

This post appeared first on http://www.woodworkingnetwork.com

Jul 13, 2018 admin Uncategorized

Takumi Woodwork Show How Japanese Style Woodworking Should Be Done

Credit: Takumi Woodwork

Most woodworkers know Japanese joinery is just wonderful, but what happens when two British guys start a woodworking business solely on this style of work?

The answer is Takumi Woodwork and the results are pretty special.

I contacted Louis from Takumi to ask him about featuring his business here on the blog, but as I was writing, I became more and more intrigued by the business side of these woodworking exploits. So I got back in touch with Louis to find out more about #thebusinessofwoodworking.

Takumi Woodwork was initially started by lifelong friends Louis Higgins and Ed Wilson. Louis being the carpenter/joiner of the duo established a successful woodworking business on the North Japanese island of Hokkaido before having to return to the UK. This return to the UK coincided with Ed finishing his University studies in architecture. The pair teamed up and Takumi Woodwork was born in 2016. Ed has since departed to work with motorcycles, and Louis carries on with the business on his own.

Credit: Takumi Woodwork

There’s something simple and pure about the Japanese style of woodworking that just draws you in. It is almost minimalist at times, but embraces the flaws and the character of the wood with gentle embellishments. Louis has captured the style perfectly.

Credit: Takumi Woodwork

As well as crafting beautiful furniture, Louis makes small everyday items. But for me, it’s his furniture that gets me— it is at such a high level. The Japanese word “takumi” translates as artisan, craftsman, or handmade, and Louis’ work embodies all these words superbly.

Credit: Takumi Woodwork

As a woodworker and business owner myself, I find it useful to explore the things that others do in their business. With this in mind, I plan to start a series of short interviews that can provide some insight into the ways other people conduct #thebusinessofwoodworking. I’m delighted to be able to kick it off with some views from a young, new business owner in Louis.

Dónal Moloney: Was it a risk to focus solely on a Japanese style of woodworking when you started Takumi?

Louis Higgins: I think it was a risk yes, but starting a business always includes a degree of risk. I think it’s more risky to start something with no ‘unique selling point’. Since I went to Japan I’ve noticed western culture taking more and more of an interest in Japan. People seem amazed at the level of patience and detail that the Japanese consider normal. Western woodworkers especially have a big interest in Japanese hand tools, and the joints used. I just don’t see risk as a problem. If something doesn’t work out, then accept it isn’t working and figure out how to make it work. If you have a passion for it, People will buy into your passion because it’s real.

DM: How does running a woodworking business in Japan compare to running one in the UK?

LH: The main difference is, in winter once it started snowing, I put the tools away and worked as a ski instructor. I got sick of working out in the rain as a young man so I got my ski instructors qualifications. That’s how I ended up in Japan in the first place.

The second main one is I’m not fluent in Japanese so it was more of a challenge on a daily basis, but I enjoyed learning. I was in a ski town popular with westerners with holiday homes. This meant I had no trouble getting work as there aren’t many english speaking tradesmen there. However in England I am just another woodworker, I have to actively look for work. This has been a learning curve. It’s much more difficult to run a business in a place flooded with similar businesses. The one good thing about that is, you need to try to offer something different to or better than your competitors, or the business will just go nowhere. I much prefer to just get work without trying though!

DM: What is the most profitable/lucrative type of work you have done in woodworking?

LH: There doesn’t seem to be a great deal of lucrative work so far in the new business in England. I have spent the last 18 months or so buying tools, making furniture speculatively, doing a trade show, advertising etc. I am basically throwing everything at it in the hope that one day I will make a profit. I am happy enough to do this because I love it, I come up with ideas all the time, I’m daydreaming all the time at how I can improve and what I could do in the future. I could make profit instantly by doing roofs, kitchens, and that kind of thing. I don’t find that stuff as interesting and I can always fall back on it if I have to. I do go out and hang doors or fit kitchens if I need to pay the bills.

DM: What is your greatest struggle in the business of woodworking?

LH: My greatest struggle would be time management. I’ve spent a lot of time scratching my head wondering what to do or how to efficiently do something. I think it’s better to just go for it. It’s better to try something, makes mistakes, learn from them and then improve from them next time.

DM: How has your woodworking business turned out differently than you expected it to?

LH: To be honest I had no idea what to expect. I just got frustrated as an employee and I always dreamed I would one day have my own business that treats staff well and everyone enjoys what they do. At the moment I’m not sure if I’d want to grow and have staff or just stay as a one man band with less pressures and stress. I’d love to somehow help young people learn woodworking in the future though.

DM: What is the best business advice you have received, or the best business advice you could give?

LH: The best advice I have received would be the one that everyone says – just go for it. It may sound cheesy to some, but it works for me. I think you need to love what it is you’re “going for” though. It’s not an exaggeration that you have to work really hard every day. You have to make sacrifices at least for a short while. That would be really difficult for me if it was something I didn’t love doing.

As a young man with a young business, I’m reluctant to dish out advice. When people come to my workshop they often ask where the boss is. However I do believe you can have a successful business if you love what you do, you finish every day knowing you’ve done your absolute best. Be grateful that customers want you to do the small non-glamourous jobs, and accept you don’t know everything. Accept that you can always learn something new. Don’t worry about what anyone else is doing. It depends on your definition of success, but I believe if you enjoy what you do you’re already successful.

Credit: Takumi Woodwork

Any woodworker inspired by the Japanese style of woodworking, and who wants to emulate great design, should head over to Takumi Woodwork and follow them for some creative inspiration. You won’t be disappointed.

For more;

www.takumiwoodwork.co.uk

https://www.instagram.com/takumi_woodwork/

P.S. If you liked this article, you may also like to get free and practical tips on woodworking techniques, business growth, productivity, and more in your inbox each week (you’ll also get the “How to Make a Living From Woodworking” PDF guide). Simply SIGN UP HERE to get exclusive access to a wealth of knowledge.

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Jul 7, 2018 admin Uncategorized

How to Price Your Woodwork. A Simple Technique.

Lots of woodworkers will be familiar with the YouTube videos of David Picciutto. His distinctive style and straight-talking make him an interesting and endearing character to watch.

There are a million ways to price your woodwork. In this video David outlines what he believes in regard to pricing, and why. You can’t argue with that.

But I feel it’s important to develop your own method that works for you. In the words of Bruce Lee; “Absorb what is useful, discard what is not, add what is uniquely your own…”

Let me know what you think. I’d love to hear.

Video Credit: Make Something | YouTube

For more;

https://makesomething.tv

https://www.instagram.com/makesomethingtv/

P.S. If you liked this article, you may also like to get free and practical tips on woodworking techniques, business growth, productivity, and more in your inbox each week (you’ll also get the “How to Make a Living From Woodworking” PDF guide). Simply SIGN UP HERE to get exclusive access to a wealth of knowledge.

This post appeared first on https://www.sawdustetc.com

Jun 26, 2018 admin Uncategorized

The Key to Consistent and Beautiful Woodworking Design

How do you go about designing a woodwork piece? Whether it’s furniture, or cabinets, or a more craft based type of woodwork— how do you design it? You can have a different technique for different types of projects. But I believe that if you want to be a successful woodwork designer/maker you must have a process. I’ve had this conversation with other woodworkers and not all agree with my viewpoint. Some arguments are; that having a design process isn’t very creative; or that some of the best work is done on-the-fly; or that it wastes time if you already know in your head what you want to make. I still stand by my argument. Here’s why.

A process is especially important if designing and making woodwork is your livelihood. But even if you’re a hobbyist it’s just as important for getting the most out of your time. A process is like a formula for success that you follow every time that gives you consistent results. It actually saves you time. If you have a process you never get stuck or have a woodworking equivalent of creative block or writer’s block. Instead you follow your process, and ideas flow. Following a process also removes a lot of opportunities for error. Especially if part of your process involves 3D modelling and producing a cutlist.

A hugely important part of woodwork or joinery design is setting out. I’ve done my fair share of setting out as part of a larger joinery design team that produced designs for up to 70 woodworkers out on a production floor. Setting out is producing accurate working drawings plus a cutlist to be followed for construction of a piece. Your drawing accuracy must be absolutely spot on when others are going to build a piece from your drawings and cutlist. In order to remove any opportunities for error it is vital to follow a process.

Everyone’s process will be a little different. Mine is very simple. I scribble and sketch any and every idea that comes into my head into a sketchbook. I even roughly draw the terrible ideas too. This helps me develop the general form and shape of the piece. I then take my outline into SketchUp and apply any measurement constraints that need to be taken into account. I work out what joinery methods are to be used. Then it’s refine, refine, refine. The small details make all the difference. Bevels, chamfers, tapers all can elevate a piece to a higher level.

Every time I go to make a piece, I know exactly what I’m going to do. I follow the steps of my process one after the other. I can design most projects in under an hour and am ready to start cutting then. I don’t spend ages staring into a blank screen, or out in the workshop holding pieces of timber up to each other to see what might work. I get consistent results all the time— quickly. This is ultra important if woodworking is your livelihood. Slightly less so if you’re a hobbyist.

But everyone has their own way. You just need to find what works for you.

Think about your design process. Do you have one? I love that my process helps me reduce errors, save time, produce designs consistently, and become more efficient. I honestly can’t think of a downside.

I’d love to know what you think in the comments below.

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