Laminate vs Engineered Wood Flooring: Comparison

If you’ve got your heart set on a floor that looks like real wood, you might want to compare engineered wood flooring vs laminate flooring. Both options are durable and boast the grains, knots and colour variation of real oak. However, each floor has its differences when it comes to ease of installation, water-resistance, scratch-resistance and cost.
In this blog, we detail the pros and cons of engineered wood flooring and laminate flooring and what each delivers when it comes to durability, maintenance, room suitability and more. So, let’s dive in!

What’s The Difference Between Laminate and Engineered Wood Flooring?

When thinking about engineered wood flooring vs laminate there are a few key differences to consider.

Engineered wood flooring is constructed from either softwood, plywood or HDF (high-density fibreboard) which creates a strong, sturdy base. The base is then topped with a thin veneer of real oak. This multi-layered construction means engineered wood boasts all the beauty of solid wood but with a much lower price tag!

Engineered wood flooring is finished with either an oil or a lacquer. An oiled finish provides a beautiful, natural look but minimal water-resistance as it sinks into the wood. A lacquered finish creates a water-resistant barrier on the surface of the wood which provides a glossy sheen.

Laminate flooring is made from a base of HDF which ensures the floor is durable enough to withstand any knocks and bumps. The base is also given a high-performance backing layer to prevent the floor from warping. 

Once the base is complete, a photographic layer is added on top to create the illusion of a wood or stone floor. The laminate is protected by a transparent, scratch-resistant and water-resistant coating. 

With all the durability of a water-resistant floor and the aesthetic of wood or stone, laminate is a fantastic alternative to real oak or slate and costs a fraction of the price!

Pros and Cons of Laminate Flooring

There are lots of reasons to choose laminate flooring – it’s affordable, easy to clean and durable enough to handle daily life. But that doesn’t mean it’s the right choice for you. Read on for the pros and cons of laminate flooring.

Benefits of Laminate Flooring

• Affordability – Laminate is one of the most affordable floors available, making it ideal if you want a lovely new floor but you have a tight budget. 
• Easy to install – Most laminate floors are fitted with a handy click-fit system, allowing you to simply ‘click’ the boards into place like a jigsaw.
• Easy to maintain – Laminate doesn’t need much maintenance to keep it looking clean and fresh. A quick sweep and a weekly mop will do the job!
• Durability – Laminate is extremely hardwearing, making it perfect if you’ve got kids or pets at home.
• Water-resistance – Laminate is water-resistant, so it’s ideal for areas like the kitchen or dining room, where spills are likely.
• Range of designs – Laminate is available in a variety of styles and colours, so you’ll find a floor to suit any decor.
• Looks like real wood or stone – Laminate is a brilliant alternative if you love the look of natural materials like oak or slate but your budget won’t stretch to the real thing.
• Underfloor heating compatible – Underfloor heating works wonderfully under laminate, so you’ll stay toasty, whatever the weather!

Disadvantages of Laminate Flooring

• Can’t sand and refinish – Unlike wood flooring, laminate can’t be sanded and refinished when signs of age appear. This means that when your floor starts to look worn, you’ll need to replace it.
• Thinner than other floors – Laminate flooring ranges from between 6-12mm thick which means it’s often thinner than other floors like solid and engineered wood.
• Shorter lifespan than other floors –  As laminate can’t be refinished it may not last as long as a solid or engineered wood floor.
• Not a natural product – Unlike solid wood, laminate flooring is manmade, so it might not be ideal if your heart is set on natural materials.

Pros and Cons of Engineered Wood Flooring

Engineered Wood flooring boasts all the beauty and character of real oak, costs less than solid wood and lasts for decades. That said, it might not be the ideal choice for your home. Let’s look at the pros and cons of engineered wood flooring.

Benefits of Engineered Wood Flooring

• Affordability – Engineered wood has the same natural look and feel as solid wood but comes with a slightly lower price tag. This means it’s a great choice if you want a real wood floor but you’re working with a smaller budget.
• Durability – Engineered wood is extremely durable and unlike solid wood it can resist changes to moisture and humidity. This means you can use it for areas where solid wood isn’t ideal, like the kitchen, conservatory or summer house.
• Long lifespan – Engineered wood can be sanded and refinished when it starts showing signs of age. As a result, engineered wood lasts longer than LVT and laminate flooring, usually 30+ years.
• Natural materials – Unlike wood effect LVT and laminate flooring, engineered wood contains natural wood, making it ideal if you prefer real materials to man-made ones. 
• Range of options – Engineered wood is available in a range of colours, from natural wood shades to white and grey. You can also choose from a variety of styles, so whether you love the look of straight plank, herringbone, chevron or versailles, you’ll find a gorgeous floor you’ll adore.
• Underfloor heating compatible – Unlike solid wood, engineered wood flooring can be fitted over underfloor heating, so you’ll never worry about cold feet again! 

Disadvantages of Engineered Wood Flooring

• Not always water-resistant – Unlike LVT and laminate flooring, engineered wood isn’t always resistant to water. If you choose a lacquered finish, the lacquer will protect against splashes and spills. However, you won’t get the same water-resistance with an oiled engineered wood floor.  
• Not scratch-resistant – Engineered wood isn’t as resistant to scratches as some LVT and laminate floors are, so it’s not always best if you have pets at home. But, if you’re sold on an engineered wood floor, a brushed floor is a great alternative, as the textured effect will disguise scratches. Be sure to opt for an oiled finish, as lacquer will highlight any scratches!
• Shorter lifespan than solid wood –  Engineered wood can last for more than 30 years. However, solid wood has a much longer lifespan and can usually be sanded and refinished more times than engineered wood. 
• Takes time to install – As long as you’ve done your research and prep, there’s no reason you can’t install your own engineered wood floor. But whether you’re DIY-ing it or you’ve hired a professional, it’s worth noting it will take longer to fit than laminate or LVT flooring. 
• Not the cheapest option – While engineered wood flooring is more affordable than solid wood, it still costs a bit more than LVT and laminate flooring. If your renovation budget is tight, engineered wood might not be ideal.

Durability and Maintenance

If you’re weighing up engineered wood flooring versus laminate, you might be wondering how the two compare on durability. Here, we break down everything you need to know. 

Laminate is extremely durable which makes it ideal for homes with kids and pets. Its water-resistant surface means a dropped sippy cup or your dog’s post-shower shake-off can be cleaned up quickly, leaving your floor good as new. Check out our guide to maintaining laminate flooring for our top tips! 

Laminate is also scratch-resistant, so anything from a case of dog ‘zoomies’ to your little one’s toy car races won’t leave a lasting mark. 

The one thing to keep in mind about laminate is that while it’s not easy to damage it, once any damage is done, you’ll need to replace the affected boards. 

Engineered wood is hardwearing but doesn’t offer the scratch-resistance or water-resistance that laminate does, so it’s important to consider this if you have kids or four-legged friends. 

If you want a wood floor but you know scratches will be inevitable, go for a brushed and oiled floor to make sure any marks are hidden by the texture of the brushed wood. If you’re sold on real wood but need protection from splashes and spills, a lacquered engineered wood floor is the one for you. 
The good thing about choosing engineered wood flooring is that it can be sanded and refinished if any damage occurs, so you won’t have to replace any planks or worry about replacing your whole floor. But, before you try that, remember to read our guide to removing stains from engineered wood flooring!

Cost Comparison

Cost is another factor in the engineered wood flooring vs laminate comparison.

Laminate flooring costs less to make than wood and LVT, making it the most affordable flooring option on the market. Prices for our laminate floors start from just £12.99m². Laminate is also easier and quicker to install than engineered wood, which means you can fit it yourself and save on installation fees. 

Engineered wood is more expensive to produce than laminate flooring, so naturally it costs a bit more. Our engineered wood floors start from £25.99m², although you might be able to snap one up for less in one of our sales! Keep in mind that fitting engineered wood can be time-consuming, so if you’re planning to hire a professional fitter, you’ll need to budget for labour costs too.

Suitability for Different Rooms

Being water-safe and scratch-resistant, laminate is suitable for all kinds of rooms, including areas where spills are likely and where temperatures and humidity fluctuate, such as your kitchen or conservatory. However, it’s not completely waterproof, so we don’t recommend installing it in bathrooms. 

Engineered wood’s hardwearing nature makes it ideal for areas with lots of people coming and going, like living rooms and hallways. However, it’s not designed to cope with lots of moisture, so avoid moisture-prone areas like the bathroom. And remember, if you want to fit engineered wood in your dining room or kitchen, be sure to choose a lacquered finish to protect your floor from splashes and spills.

Which Is the Most Realistic?

When comparing engineered wood flooring vs laminate for authenticity, engineered wood comes out on top. The real oak layer boasts the unrivalled beauty of wood, giving your floor the look and feel of solid oak. 
Laminate has come a long way since the 80s and no longer has a reputation for looking cheap or fake. Wood effect laminate does a great job of mimicking the patterns and colours of real oak, while embossing creates texture. That said, nothing can match the awe-inspiring beauty of a real wood floor.

Underfloor Heating Compatibility

If you’re wondering about underfloor heating in the engineered wood flooring vs laminate comparison, we have good news! Both engineered wood and laminate flooring can be used with underfloor heating. 

If you’re choosing laminate flooring, you’ll need a thermal foam underlay with a fairly low TOG rating. The higher the TOG rating, the more insulation your underlay will have and while insulation is great for keeping heat in, if you’re using it with underfloor heating it needs to be thin enough for the heat to escape your floor!
Read our blog to find out more about using engineered wood flooring with underfloor heating.

Which Flooring Is Best for Pet Owners?

If you’ve got a furry friend or two at home you’ll be wondering how each floor stacks up in the engineered wood flooring versus laminate debate. 

Spills, scratches and little accidents are inevitable with animals, especially puppies and kittens who aren’t fully toilet-trained! Laminate is not only scratch-safe and water-resistant, it’s quick and easy to clean too, making it ideal for pet owners. Laminate is also extremely affordable, so if your pet does manage to do some damage, replacing the affected boards won’t hit your bank balance hard. 

Engineered wood doesn’t offer the same durability as laminate, but that doesn’t mean it’s out of the question for pet owners. If you’re worried about accidents and spills, we recommend choosing a lacquered floor. Lacquered wood is water-resistant and you’ll find it easier to clean than an oiled wood floor. 

If your concern is scratches, opt for a brushed and oiled engineered wood floor. The brushed effect creates a textured look that’s perfect for hiding scratches. Just keep in mind that an oiled floor won’t be water-resistant, so you’ll need to act fast if there’s a spill!

Top tips for protecting your floor from pets:

• If choosing a floor that’s not scratch-resistant, use rugs or runners to protect your floor.
• Trim your pets’ claws regularly to prevent scratches.
• Put mats under food and water bowls to reduce the risk of stains when anything spills.

Which Is Better for You?

As you can see, when looking at engineered wood flooring versus laminate there are pros and cons to each option. What’s best for you will depend on your lifestyle, your household and your personal preference!

If you’re after an affordable floor that’s easy to clean and maintain and offers lots of durability, laminate flooring is the one for you. 

If you’re not on a tight budget and want an authentic-looking wood floor that’s designed to last decades, engineered wood will be a great choice. 

Whichever floor you choose, be sure to take advantage of our unlimited free samples. You can order as many as you like until you find your perfect match! 

Get Social

Still not sure which floor to choose? Get in touch with our friendly flooring experts, they’re always happy to help.

Don’t forget to follow us on Instagram and TikTok for all the latest news, blog posts and handy tips and tricks. Tag us on Instagram #MyLuxuryFloor and mention us on TikTok @luxuryflooringfurnishing. We’d love to see how your new floor has turned out! 

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Sophie and Ollie recently bought their first home and were excited to make their cold and dark bedroom feel more inviting. Knowing they wanted an affordable, high-quality wood floor, they were impressed by our range of options and chose the very popular Painswick Biscuit Engineered Oak.

Why did you choose Luxury Flooring?

We wanted high-quality wooden flooring, and Luxury Flooring had an amazing range of options. There were so many shades to choose from that we knew we’d find something perfect for our space. On top of that, the pricing was super affordable, which made the decision even easier.

What was most important to you when designing your room?

Before, the room felt really dark and cold—the dark floor tiles and navy blue walls didn’t help! It lacked warmth and didn’t feel like a space where we could truly relax and unwind. We wanted to create a room that felt bright, cosy and inviting, a place that would instantly lift our mood when we walked in. 

We knew the flooring was going to play a massive role in changing that vibe. By choosing a lighter, natural wood tone, we could open up the space and make it feel more spacious and airy. It wasn’t just about aesthetics, though; we wanted the room to feel comfortable and practical too. The right flooring would set the foundation for everything else—the furniture, the décor and the overall ambiance.

What does your home situation look like?

This is our first home together as a couple, so it’s just the two of us here. That means we’ve had the freedom to really make the place our own.

What finishing touches make your room feel cosy?

A gorgeous rug really helped add some texture and warmth to the room. It pairs beautifully with the Painswick Biscuit engineered oak flooring, complementing its natural tones while adding a layer of depth to the space. We also invested in a statement bed frame with linen details, which not only makes the bed a true focal point but also adds an element of softness and elegance that makes the room feel incredibly cosy.

What qualities were you looking for in your new flooring? 

As first-time home buyers and renovators, we were navigating the balance between staying on budget and finding something that would truly elevate our home. Affordability was absolutely key, but we didn’t want to compromise on quality—this was an investment we wanted to last. When we compared Luxury Flooring’s prices with other brands, it was a no-brainer; they offered the perfect combination of cost-effectiveness and premium quality. What really reassured us were the glowing reviews from other customers, who consistently praised the durability, craftsmanship and look of the flooring. 

We were also looking for a wide range of options to ensure we could find the perfect shade and finish to match our vision. The variety at Luxury Flooring was impressive—there was something for every style and aesthetic. Another priority was finding flooring that was easy to maintain, especially as we’re new to homeownership and wanted something that wouldn’t require constant upkeep. The engineered oak we chose ticked all these boxes, giving us a durable, stylish and practical solution that we knew we could count on for years to come.

 Have you ever had a ‘panic moment’ with your floor? If so, how did you handle it? 

We definitely had a few panic moments when installing our floor, especially since we decided to go for the herringbone style. As first-time DIYers, we knew it would be a bit of a challenge, but there were times we thought we’d completely messed up! Herringbone can be tricky on the eyes, and there were moments where we thought the pattern looked off or that we’d made a mistake with the layout.

To handle it, we reminded ourselves to take things slowly and stay patient. We broke the project into sections rather than trying to tackle it all at once, which made it much more manageable. Taking regular breaks also helped give us a fresh perspective when our eyes started playing tricks on us. We also double-checked the pattern regularly as we went along, making sure everything was lining up properly before moving on to the next section. 

What advice would you give to someone looking to transform their floor?

Don’t rush the planning phase! Take your time to really consider the style and atmosphere you want to create in the room, as the flooring will set the tone for everything else. Look at the big picture—think about how the flooring will work with your existing furniture, wall colours, and the overall feel of your home. Ordering samples is a must; seeing and feeling the material in your actual space is so much more helpful than relying on online photos. It lets you see how the colour changes throughout the day with different lighting, which can make a huge difference.

Finally, don’t be afraid to ask the Luxury Flooring team questions. A little extra research upfront will help you avoid surprises down the road, and it’s worth taking the time to feel confident about your choice. Flooring is a big investment, but when done right, it can completely transform your space and be a feature you’ll love for years to come.

What’s your top DIY tip?

Measure twice, cut once! It’s such a cliché, but it really is the golden rule for any DIY project, especially when it comes to flooring. Taking the time to double-check your measurements can save you from wasting materials or running short, which can be both frustrating and expensive. If you’re working with tricky areas like alcoves or door frames, don’t rush—make templates if needed to ensure an accurate fit.

How has your new floor improved your home?

It has completely transformed our bedroom! What used to feel dark, gloomy, and uninviting is now light, calm and tranquil—a perfect space to relax at the end of a busy day. The new flooring has brought a warmth and natural beauty to the room that completely changed its atmosphere. The Painswick Biscuit engineered oak has a gorgeous, soft tone that reflects light beautifully, making the space feel brighter and more open.

Beyond aesthetics, the flooring has made the room feel more cohesive and in line with the style of the rest of our home. It’s amazing how such a simple change can make a room feel so much more polished and finished. On a practical level, the flooring is super easy to maintain, which has been a huge bonus for us as first-time homeowners.

  

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Jake and David wanted to add character and contemporary flair to their Georgian-style home in Lancashire. They had their hearts set on a pale oak floor and natural materials that would stand the test of time. Taking advantage of our free sample service, they compared lots of floors, before choosing the stunning Painswick Biscuit Engineered Oak.

Why did you choose Luxury Flooring?

We chose Luxury Flooring because they were competitive on price and we were really happy with the quality. We found that the free sample service really set Luxury Flooring apart from their competitors and the team were very friendly and responsive whenever we had any questions.

What was most important to you when designing your room?

The space had to be multifunctional in the sense that it would be a great room to relax and watch films at the weekend but also sociable for hosting guests, which we like to do often.

What does your home situation look like?

We have a 2-year-old English Show Type Cocker Spaniel called Alfie.

How do you prepare your home before hosting?

We like to light the fire and lots of candles!

Which rooms do you use for hosting?

The living room is my main hosting room when family and friends come over, and it opens up onto the garden so it’s a nice easy room to use. I’m currently doing my garden up ready for hosting in the summer months.

What qualities were you looking for in your new flooring?

The colour of the flooring was really important to us. We wanted a pale oak colour that almost looked unfinished and in its most natural state. It was also important for the flooring to be durable and hardwearing.

Have you ever had a ‘panic moment’ with your floor? If so, how did you handle it?

When installing our floor we were not prepared for how quickly the flooring glue dries, so we put less down at any given time and worked quicker.

Have you used our Stock hold, Klarna or Price Match services?

We used the stock hold service to secure the flooring in one of the sales. This was a great service as we did not want to lose out on the promotion but due to the renovation, we were not quite ready to accept delivery.

What advice would you give to someone looking to transform their floor?

Order lots of samples. The flooring can look different depending on how much natural light you get.

How has your new floor transformed your home?

It has made the space feel more cohesive and in keeping of the Georgian-style as well as feeling more luxurious.

  

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Copaia (Jacaranda copaia) is probably more commonly known in North American trade as para para. However, the common name of lumber from this tree varies from country to country. In fact, in Panama, it is sometimes called “elephant’s foot” as the corrugated trunk near the ground looks somewhat like an elephant’s foot.

The tree is found in Central and South America, from Belize to Brazil. It grows rapidly and is known for its ability to regenerate quickly in open clearings. It has a straight stem that can be free of branches for over 50 feet. The overall height exceeds 100 feet and the diameter is often more than 2 feet, not counting the swollen butt. It is this long straight stem that makes this tree suited for local use (where it grows) as roof poles and timbers with a long span.

The foliage resembles an arboreal fern; the leaves when broken have a somewhat obnoxious odor. The tree does have showy flowers that are a deep violet color, with blooms from February through April.

Because of the low density of the wood, because of its susceptibility to insects and decay, which is especially important in tropical countries, and because of its creamy color without much pretty grain, the wood is not highly regarded. This wood is a “local use” species; uses include furniture components, interior construction, boxes and crates, matchsticks and matchboxes. Reports are that much of the lumber from this tree is exported to China; it is then imported to various countries as an exposed wood in furniture and cabinets. Nevertheless, it does offer some manufacturing opportunities in the U.S. for furniture.

Processing suggestions and characteristics
Density. The density of para para varies, but averages about 17 pounds per cubic foot at 7 percent MC.

Drying. Para para is subject to rapid blue staining (a fungal activity), so it is critical that the lumber be dried promptly after sawing. Kiln drying is probably better than air drying to control this staining risk. The wood dries very rapidly and with little risk of checking, splitting or warping. 

Gluing and Machining. Gluing is easy. However, there is a risk of the liquid in the glue being adsorbed too rapidly. So, either increase the liquid content of the adhesive or move quickly after the glue is spread. Machining is also easy, but, if the tools are not sharp, the fibers will fuzz and not cut cleanly.

Stability. This wood is quite stable. It will take nearly a 7 percent moisture content change to result in a 1 percent size change radially. It will take nearly a 5 percent change tangentially to result in a 1 percent size change.

Strength. The strength varies with density. A typical strength value (MOR) is 7,040 psi. The stiffness is 1.3 million psi. Hardness is 350 pounds; these are all quite low. Comparable values for hard maple are 15,800 psi, 1.8 million psi and 1450 pounds.

Color and Grain. Heartwood and sapwood look similar and cannot easily be separated. The color is dull white with a slight hint of a pinkish hue. The vertical vessels show up as darker lines, giving the wood a coarse grain appearance. The luster is high.

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Coigue (Nothofagus dombeyi), a member of the southern beech family, is sometimes marketed as Chilean beech. The wood appears similar to our native and European beech, except for the absence of the ray fleck. 

It has a bit more pink or reddish coloration than North American beech. A nearly identical species is called rauli (Nothofagus procera). Note that the genus name Nothofagus means “false beech.”

These two species, coigue and rauli, grow mainly in Chile and Argentina. The trees are often 130 feet tall and three feet or larger in diameter. Although they are hardwood trees (that is, they have leaves and not needles), but they are also evergreens. 

The first branch is often more than 50 feet above the ground, meaning that the harvested tree produces large volumes of clear lumber. In the forests, the tree grows rapidly and in dense, single-species stands.

Due to its abundance and favorable growth and appearance, we expect to see more of this lumber imported into North America. 
However, on the negative side, much of the supply in Argentina is in national parks, so harvesting is limited.

The lumber from these two species appears similar to cherry and therefore is being sold as a cherry substitute, at considerably lower prices than cherry. 

The wood is easy to work and quite stable when the moisture changes. This wood is certainly an all-purpose type of wood and will find widespread uses in furniture and cabinets. 

Processing suggestions and characteristics
Density. The wood is almost always brought into the U.S. already kiln dried, although it may not be at the preferred 7.0 percent MC level. It weighs about 31 pounds per cubic foot, which means that a ¾-inch thick board foot will weigh about 2 pounds. There is a 10 percent natural variation in density from the lightest weight to the heavier pieces.

Drying. Drying is difficult — slow with a lot of warping and collapse. The collapse must be removed or recovered by using a steaming treatment at the end of drying. If not done, when the wood is exposed to wetting or high humidity in manufacturing or afterwards, it will swell erratically; it may swell 5 percent or more at this first wetting exposure. Shrinkage in drying, except for collapse is typical for a medium density hardwood, about 5.3 percent across the width of a flatsawn piece of lumber.

Gluing and machining. This wood glues very well with no extra care required. This wood also machines well, as might be expected, given its density. As always, the best machining occurs when knives are sharp.

Stability. Coigue is fairly stable, requiring a 4-1/2 percent MC change in the tangential direction (parallel to the rings) for a 1 percent size change. 

Strength. The ultimate bending strength (MOE) is 14,900 psi. The elasticity is 2.26 million psi. The hardness is 1160 pounds. Coigue is a bit stronger, stiffer, and harder than cherry. (The values reported here for coigue are for lower density material; some increase can be expected as the wood density wood increases.) For comparison, cherry is 12,300 psi, 1.49 psi and 950 pounds.

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Rubberwood is the name given to lumber from the rubber tree (Hevea brasiliensis), which is a tree producing latex to produce natural rubber. (Other names today include parawood and Malaysian oak.) 

Although Christopher Columbus was shown rubber on his journeys to the New World, it was not until 1839 that the vulcanization process was invented that made the elastic properties of rubber permanent. 

Prior to WW II, a vast forest area of rubber tree plantations, especially in the Amazon region, were envisioned and planted to satisfy the world’s growing demand for natural rubber. But then synthetic rubber was developed, making the rubber forests essentially obsolete. Today, with natural rubber being in more demand, Malaysia, Thailand and Indonesia grow most of the trees (covering 9 million acres), produce most of the natural rubber, and have the largest supplies of lumber.

The reason that rubberwood is an important lumber species is that the latex production from the trees drops after about 25 years. Further, newer genotypes have been developed in recent years resulting in higher production of latex, compared to older trees. So, the 25-year-old trees are being cut to renew the rubber forest. 

In the past, these old trees were burned. However, today, most of these older trees are being sawn into lumber. This lumber production from plantation grown trees is indeed quite environmentally friendly. Products made from this wood include furniture and cabinets, household woodenware, and parquet flooring, and this species is fairly popular in furniture that is being imported into the U.S.

Processing suggestions and characteristics
Density. Most plantation grown stock will run about 35 to 37 pounds per cubic foot at 7 percent MC. For a piece of wood at 7 percent MC that is ¾ inch thick by 6 inches wide and 24 inches long, the weight is 2.3 pounds. Kiln-dried, rough lumber will weigh about 3000 pounds per 1,000 BF.

Drying. Rubberwood dries rapidly with a medium to high risk of warp development. Splitting can also occur on the ends of the lumber pieces. Radially (thickness of a flatsawn piece) the shrinkage in drying is under 2 percent. Tangentially (the width in flatsawn lumber), shrinkage is 4 percent. 

Gluing and machining. Gluing is reported to be excellent. The wood machines well with few defects or problems.

Stability. It takes a 12 percent moisture content change for a 1 percent size change radially. It takes a 6 percent MC change tangentially. Kiln drying to the correct final MC (usualy about 7.0 percent MC) is required.

Strength. The strength (MOR) of dried rubberwood is 9,500 psi. The stiffness is 1.3 million psi. The hardness is 500 pounds.

Color and grain. The color of rubberwood is initially creamy when sawn, but after kiln drying and exposure to light, the wood turns darker with brownish and pinkish tints. The sapwood and heartwood appear similar and cannot be easily separated. The vertically running vessels give the grain a coarse appearance. These vessels also give the wood a bit of character.

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Three of the five major spruces in North America grow in the eastern half of the United States and Canada. Collectively called eastern spruce, they are red spruce (Picea rubens), white spruce (P. glauca) and black spruce (P. mariana). Red spruce is found primarily in New England, the Appalachians and eastern Canada, while white and black spruce are found in the Great Lakes region, New England and eastern Canada. Their wood is impossible to separate visually once sawn into lumber. The properties are also essentially identical.

Eastern spruce trees are usually not very large (seldom over 2 feet in diameter) and the lumber they produce often has very small knots. Although spruce is known for its high strength compared to its weight, the abundance of other softwood species with clearer wood in much of its growing area resulted in limited harvesting and manufacturing of eastern spruce lumber in the past. Among its uses, in colonial times, the wood was utilized for mast and spars; this use continues today for small sailing boats. 

Eastern spruce also still is used for piano sounding boards, violins and other musical instruments due to its excellent resonance properties. It also has potential applications in furniture and cabinets due to its gluing, machining, stability and strength properties. Perhaps the only limiting factor is, because of its past history of usage and its processing into construction lumber.

Today, pulpwood is probably eastern spruce’s number one use, followed by construction lumber, especially 2 x 4s and 2 x 6s, much of which is imported from Canada and sold under the species grouping of SPF lumber (spruce, pine, fir). 

Processing suggestions and characteristics
Density. The three spruces have a density of approximately 27 pounds per cubic foot at 7 percent MC. This is one of the lightest-weight species in North America.

Drying. The spruces dry easily with few defects. If logs or green lumber are stored in warm weather, blue stain in the sapwood is common. Shrinkage in drying is 6 percent. Final moisture content should be between 7.5 to 9 percent. As with most softwoods, higher MCs are desired, because excessively dry wood will develop torn grain and may require increased glue spread to avoid a starved joint.

Gluing and machining. They machine very easily, with few defects except around the knots. Gluing is excellent. The softness means the wood is quite forgiving if gluing conditions are not perfect.

Stability. The spruces are subject to minimal size changes when the MC changes — about 1 percent size change running across the grain parallel to the rings (tangentially) for each 5 percent MC change, and about 1 percent size change across the rings (radially) for each 10 percent MC change.

Strength. Spruces are medium in strength and stiffness. Bending strength (MOR) averages 10,800 psi for red and black and a little lower for white. Hardness averages 500 pounds. Stiffness (MOE) averages 1.6 million psi in red and black, with white 1.43 million psi.

Color and grain. The grain is straight, fine and uniform. The wood is pale white, with the sapwood and heartwood indistinguishable most of the time. There is no appreciable odor when dry.

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Yellow poplar is probably the third most important hardwood in our Eastern forests, after maple and oak. Much of the yellow poplar today is growing on excellent sites where the American chestnut used to grow in the late 19th century, before blight wiped out these magnificent trees.

As a result, yellow poplar is one of the largest trees in today’s Eastern forests, large in both diameter and height, often more than 3 feet in diameter and 150 feet tall with some 100 feet of the stem without a branch. Yellow poplar is a member of the magnolia family. In fact, from time to time, some lumber from cucumber tree or other magnolia is accidentally included with yellow poplar lumber; such lumber is much whiter in color.

Yellow poplar (Liriodendron tulipifera) is also called tulip poplar and tulip tree. Sometimes, it is called just poplar, which can lead to confusion with the true poplar species including aspen. However, yellow poplar is not related to the aspen poplar or European poplars. The volume of yellow poplar in the forest continues to increase every year in spite of large harvests. 

In fact, yellow poplar has been providing important forest products for North American inhabitants for many centuries. For example, much of the early wooden tableware was made of yellow poplar. Early European settlers used it for log cabins, although decay soon resulted in deterioration.

Yellow poplar has been used for everything from musical instruments to pallets and construction 2x4s, from veneer to particleboard and OSB.

Processing suggestions and characteristics
Density. Yellow poplar averages about 26 pounds per cubic foot at 7 percent MC. 

Drying. Yellow poplar is perhaps the easiest drying species native to North America. Some blue stain can develop if drying is not aggressive enough or if logs or green lumber was stored rather than processed immediately. Shrinkage in drying is 6 percent. Final moisture contents for yellow poplar should be between 6.0 to 7.5 percent MC. 

Gluing and machining. Yellow poplar machines very well. Sharp tools will minimize fuzzing. Yellow poplar is very easy to glue. The softness means that the wood is quite forgiving in gluing.

Stability. Yellow poplar is subject about 1 percent size change running across the grain parallel to the rings (tangentially) for each 3-1/2 percent MC change, and about 1 percent size change across the rings (radially) for each 6 percent MC change.

Strength. Yellow poplar is medium-low in strength and stiffness. The bending strength (MOR) averages 10,100 psi. Hardness averages 540 pounds. Stiffness (MOE) averages 1.6 million psi. 

Color and grain. Grain of yellow poplar is fine and uniform in texture. Sapwood is fairly white with a hint of light tan color with an obvious light green hue. For “show wood” the sapwood is preferred. Heartwood tends to be greener in color. 

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Whenever we do a little reading about the way things were in our industry in the “old days,” meaning the 1920s and 1930s, we find out that one of the major species back then was sweetgum (Liquidambar styraciflua). The name liquidambar is from the common name in Mexico (indirectly from Latin, meaning liquid and amber) in reference to the fragrant resin. 

The yellowish colored sap (technically called gum in a hardwood tree) is exuded from bark wounds and can actually be boiled down and concentrated into a salve that will reportedly cure skin problems and other ailments. 

The tree is common from Missouri to Connecticut and all states south of there, but lumber production is primarily in the southern states.

Even though plentiful, sweetgum lumber is not seen in most sawmills and therefore not seen in most furniture plants. Yet, it is one of my favorite species. I think that it is overlooked as a premium, moderately strong wood.

In the marketplace sweetgum is sold as either sap gum (which is the light colored sapwood) or red gum (which is the reddish-brown heartwood).

Incidentally, the Australian nursery rhyme that begins “Kookaburra sits in the old gum tree, eating all the gumdrops he can see.” is not referring to the sweetgum tree, but to one of the Australian eucalyptus trees. However, the expression “up a gum tree” which means “in great difficulty” or “in a sticky situation” is apparently American in origin. There is also an old musical song (circa 1824) that was also danced to entitled “Possum Up a Gum Tree” which was from South Carolina and referred to the sweetgum.  

Processing suggestions and characteristics
Density. Sweetgum has a density of approximately 33 pounds per cubic foot. Sweetgum KD lumber weighs about 3 pounds per board foot at 7 percent MC.

Drying. The wood has interlocked grain and it warps. Flatsawn wood has a tendency to cup. Overall, gum shrinks 8 percent from green to 6 percent MC. Sap gum, like most sapwood, is subject to rapid discoloration by blue stain fungi and chemical gray stain in warm weather. Red gum will honeycomb if dried too quickly.

Gluing and machining. Sweetgum glues fairly easily, but because of the interlocked grain, any change in MC will likely affect surface flatness, thereby affecting glue bond strength. Sanding requires fresh (sharp) sandpaper. 

Stability. Gum shrinks and swells a more than some hardwoods (1 percent size change for a 3 percent MC change). Further, the interlocked grain can cause some unusual shrinkage problems. I suggest 6.5 percent MC to 7.0 percent MC as the target for most users. 

Strength. The strength (MOR) at 12 percent MC is 12,500 psi, Stiffness (MOE) is 1.64 million psi, and hardness is 850 pounds.
Color and grain. Red gum has its own wonderful, busy character often with long streaks of various dark colors and interlocked grain. This interlocked grain creates a long ribbon like appearance, very similar to mahogany. The concern over drying has been blown out of proportion and has led to a negative connotation when sweetgum is mentioned.

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Basswood (Tilia americana), also called linden, is a beautiful, fast growing tree reaching heights of 130 feet. It has a straight trunk, with most of the bole limb-free, thereby producing large volumes of clear lumber. The wood is creamy white, low in weight and strength, and without much obvious grain.

There are three commercially used species of basswood in North America: American basswood, Carolina basswood, and white basswood. The wood is so similar that they are not separated in the lumber market. The natural range of American basswood is widespread, ranging from southwestern New Brunswick to eastern North Dakota to North Carolina. Carolina basswood is found in the southeastern United States, from Virginia to Florida, and west to Texas. White basswood is common in the Appalachian Mountains and the Cumberland Plateau region of the eastern United States. There can be potential staining problems if shipping lumber before drying, so it may be prudent to purchase basswood from sawmills and drying facilities in the growth areas.

Due to its freedom from odor and taste, basswood continues to be the preferred wood for apiary (bee hives) supplies and other food containers. 

It is also the top choice for wooden Venetian blind slats. Wood carvers also love basswood as its straight grain and low density mean easy cutting. Other “old-time” uses include drafting tables, surveying stakes, tripods, and other related equipment. 
In Europe some of the beautiful religious paintings are framed in basswood, which they call lime. There are more than 25 species of basswood in Europe. 

Processing suggestions and characteristics
Density. Basswood is one of the lightest weight hardwoods in North America. Its density is about 25 pounds per cubic foot or about 2 pounds per board foot, 1-inch thick. A planed piece 3/4-inch thick at 7 percent MC will weigh under 1-1/2 pounds per BF.
Drying. Basswood dries rapidly with little risk of defect except for possible staining. Because many uses for require long, narrow, thin cuttings that must be flat, special attention must be paid to stress relief at the end of drying. Shrinkage is about 7 percent.

Gluing and machining. Gluing is excellent, with the wood’s softness making it very forgiving. Very low MCs and low density mean that pressure needs to applied ASAP after the glue is spread, or a starved joint is likely. Basswood machines very well if tools are sharp. 

Stability. Basswood changes size by 1 percent if the moisture changes by 3 percent MC. This is a higher rate of change than many hardwoods, but basswood’s straight grain minimizes any warping that could occur if the moisture changes.

Strength. The strength (MOR) of basswood is 8700 psi, which is quite low. Likewise, the stiffness is somewhat low, 1.46 million psi,. The hardness is 410 pounds. 

Color and grain. The creamy white heartwood and sapwood are so similar in appearance that it can be hard to tell them apart. The texture is very fine, and the grain is indistinct. Due to variations in color from region to region, and possible staining, a contract should specify the color required to prevent any off-color material. 

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