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Douglas-fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii) is one of the premier species of the Western forests. Not only is the wood exceptionally strong for its weight, but the trees are abundant. Trees can grow over 250 feet tall (with the first 150 feet free of knots and branches) and over 6 feet in diameter. Some trees are well over 800 years old.

Certainly, harvesting of some of these “old-growth” trees today must be done cautiously to avoid environmental damage and avoid depleting the forests of these icons. However, forest fires in recent years, brought on in part by poor forest management in the past years, have raised questions. Should we remove trees before they burn? If so, how many? 

Much of the Douglas-fir lumber today is coming from trees under 100 years old, which are called second-growth. Lumber properties may not be as high as with old growth, but the wood is still a superior product–strong, clear, nice grain appearance, good processing characteristics and so on. Most uses for Douglas-fir today capitalize on the wood’s high strength, yet the beauty of this wood makes it favored for millwork, furniture, cabinets and flooring.

Douglas-fir has two varieties: Coastal Douglas-fir, coming from British Columbia to California, with the best growth west of the Cascade Mountains, and Interior Douglas-fir coming mainly from the Rocky Mountains. Most wood processors prefer the Coastal variety, as it is stronger, stiffer, clearer (free of knots), and processes better. Data shown here is for Coastal. Clear wood is desired for its high strength and consistent look, and so is quite expensive.

Processing suggestions and characteristics
Density. Douglas-fir has a green specific gravity (SG) of 0.45. At 6 percent MC, the SG is 0.50. The weight, when dry, is 32 pounds per cubic foot or about 2.0 pounds per board foot (planed to 3/4-inch thickness). Most Doug-fir lumber will be sold dried and planed (S4S, surfaced 4 sides). 

Strength. For dry wood, the ultimate strength (MOR) is 12,400 psi, stiffness (MOE) is 1.95 million psi and hardness is 710 pounds. Douglas-fir, when quite dry, does have a tendency to split, so predrilling of holes for large-diameter fasteners might be required at times.

Drying and stability. The wood dries rapidly with little risk of quality loss. Most suppliers will sell only KD stock, rather than green. Shrinkage in drying is fairly low. Overall shrinkage from green to 6 percent MC is 6.9 percent tangentially (the width in flatsawn lumber) and 3.8 percent radially (the thickness of flatsawn lumber). Once dried, the wood does not move much even with large RH changes. A typical, desired, final moisture range is 9 to 10.5 percent MC. This final MC range, although high for hardwoods, facilitates machining. Once dry, it takes a 4 percent MC change to result in 1 percent size change tangentially and 7.5 percent MC change radially. 

Machining and gluing. This wood machines well, unless the MC is too low (under 9 percent MC). This wood glues without much difficulty.

Grain and color. The color of Douglas-fir varies from a reddish color to yellowish. The color darkens somewhat when exposed to light. Light earlywood and darker latewood gives the wood an obvious heavy grain appearance. 

This post appeared first on http://www.woodworkingnetwork.com

Hardwood floors are known for their long-term durability. Even so, they’re not immune to age and general wear and tear. Whether from constant use or just from growing older, you will find that eventually the boards will start to creak. In this article, we will discuss everything you need to know about creaky floors so you can decide for yourself if you have an issue that needs addressing.

What Causes Squeaky Floors?

There are a wide variety of completely different reasons why your floor could be squeaking. Let’s get into some reasons why this might be happening.

Seasonal Changes

As the seasons progress from one to the next, the temperature changes. In the winter, the air getting colder can cause even brand new boards to squeak a little. This is because as the cold and dry winter air, the boards will naturally contract a bit, becoming smaller. This creates tiny gaps between the boards and even the subfloor.

This contraction results in the boards being able to move more and rub against each other or even the fasteners. Seasonal squeaks are nothing to worry about and typically go away as soon as it starts getting warmer. You can mitigate this issue quite well by just keeping the humidity of the room between 40 and 60 percent.

Joist Problems

If you didn’t know already, joists are basically a small structure that sits beneath both the floor and subfloor. They are horizontal bars that help stabilize your subfloor and help prevent it from moving around. Any issues with the joists can cause the flooring to become looser and create creaking.

Some problems the joists may have include them being too loose, getting warped, or gaps forming between them and the subfloor. The easiest way to verify this is to have access to a basement below the boards and the room beneath the boards.

Subfloor Problems

Uneven subfloors are one of the most common ways that a squeaky floor can happen. When the subfloor is not level with everything else, it creates a gap between itself and what’s above it. This naturally allows for the board above it to move around and create noise. Another culprit may be that the joists and the subfloor are misaligned.

If you think that the joists may be the source of the issue, then the best thing you can do is get it repaired or replaced by a professional. Damaging your subfloor through accidental damage is a mistake you very much don’t want to make.

When you boil all this down to the simple basics, it always comes down to the fact that the board is becoming loose and moving around to some degree.

Are Squeaky Floors a Sign of Danger to the Structure?

Fortunately, creaky floors are basically never a sign that something is about to actually break. Squeaking does not mean that there is structural damage. If the floor was also bending or bowing in some way, then that would definitely be an issue, but by that point, you wouldn’t need the squeaking to see that happening anyway.

Any floor of any type can squeak, but hardwood floors and stairs are usually what it’s happening with. Squeaks happen when the house is settling after a change in temperature and the boards start to dry out and expand. This in turn causes the floorboards to start to rub against each other, the nail casings, or even the subfloor.

Thankfully, creaky floors are also typically really trivial to fix.

How To Fix Your Creaky Floorboards

source: unsplash

To figure out exactly where the boards that creak are, you will definitely need a second person. The reason for this is quite simple. You can’t both be on top of the boards, walking around to make them squeak, and be on the floor below to pinpoint where the board is.

An unfinished basement or crawl space is ideal for this job since it means that all you need to have on you is some carpenter’s glue or any other construction adhesive as well as a thin wood shim. All you’d need to do is smear some of the adhesive onto the shim and gently tap it into position between the joists and subfloor. If that’s not easy to do, then you can also just jam directly between the bad boards and good ones adjacent to it.

If you end up finding that the gap is too large for a shim to work, don’t fret. There’s another great alternative as well. Get your caulking gun and simply apply the adhesive between the subfloor and the joist. Once it’s all hardened, the squeaking should be a complete thing of the past.

If the cause of the squeaking is because the boards are actively rubbing against the wooden subfloor below it, there is an admittedly more tricky option you can take to fix it. Take a short wooden screw and drive it through the bottom of the subfloor and into the base of it. Take it slow and be careful, you will want to ensure that the screw does not go too far in, as you risk the bottom of the screw sticking up out of the floor where you could step on it.

For stairs, one reliable way to fix the creaking is to access the back of the stairs where you can get under them and then, using the shims and glue we mentioned earlier, tap them into the joints between the treads and the risers. If you are for some reason unable to get under the boards, then you can do this from above as well, but you will want to make sure to trim the exposed parts afterward with a utility knife. If all else fails, you could just try applying adhesive directly on top of the boards, but you will also want to do this carefully to avoid a big mess and an annoying cleanup.

Fixing Creaky Floors From Above

You will notice that we didn’t put much emphasis on doing these fixes from above. The issue is that if you can’t get below the boards, you may have some difficulty that requires more precision than you would need otherwise.

One good method is to buy either ring-shank flooring nails (recognizable from the little rings that cover it) or cement-covered flooring nails, then hammer them into the seams between the bad boards. If what’s causing the squeak is the board coming detached from the subfloor, you can try hammering two nails at opposite 45-degree angles into the joists and filling in the holes with wood filler.

Final Thoughts

The sound of creaking can be rather unpleasant. With proper maintenance, your hardwood floor can stay in top condition for as long as you let it. If you’re in Colorado and you haven’t already done so, you can get a quote on your unique flooring needs by using this link or by calling us at (800) 639-3006.

At MacDonald Hardwoods, we love everything to do with hardwood floors. It’s our passion and the subject we know the most about. So as hardwood lovers, we do our best to preserve our floors and teach others how to do the same. Something that not many people talk about is the effect that salt and snow have on hardwood floors. That’s what we will be discussing.

Let’s get right into it.

The Relationship Between Salt and Snow

First, you are probably wondering how exactly salt gets onto your floors and why it matters. It’s important to keep our walkways safe during the winter when it gets icy. No one wants to see their mailman trip and fall. With that in mind, it’s become common for homeowners to sprinkle rock salt onto their walkways in advance of snow.

This works great and the walkways become safe to walk on. However, a side effect is that when the snow melts you can no longer see the salt. That is until it is tracked into your home from everyone’s shoes. By the time you realize what’s going on, your floors are already damaged.

How Does Salt Damage Hardwood?

source: unsplash

The crystals that come from calcium chloride are the issue. These crystals can really damage a hardwood floor finish. At a microscopic level, you would see small, rough-edged particles from salt. The rough edges unfortunately are able to ruin hardwood when stepped on or dragged across the floor. Both finished and unfinished hardwood are at risk.

Salt stains often leave a white film or residue. It’s rather unsightly. So if you live in an area where it snows frequently and you have to use rock salt outdoors, you should pay extra close attention to the solutions and prevention section further down.

How Does Snow Damage Hardwood?

source: unsplash

Compared to snow, this is a bigger issue.

When snow gets onto your hardwood floors, it doesn’t cause immediate damage. Snow isn’t the real problem. But once the snow melts and turns into water, the water saturates the entire floor, and this condition is often referred to as cupping. After some time, a lot of moisture is absorbed into the underside of the wooden boards, which then expands the bottom of each board more than the top. As a result, the hardwood takes on a wavy appearance in addition to each course of wood being raised at their seams.

Water-damaged hardwood more often happens due to leaks rather than just tracking in snow. However, snow is still able to cause damage when the source is snow from your roof. On your roof, when the snow melts into water and then freezes into ice, this is a serious problem that can lead to something called ice damming. Ice dams form at the edge of a roof and prevent water from draining off the roof, which leads to the water having to back up behind the dam, leading to leaks inside your home. This happens because the water that gets stuck finds cracks and openings in the exterior of your roof covering which is the entry point into the home.

When dealing with this issue, the most challenging part is waiting for the floors to dry out, knowing that there isn’t much you can do at the moment. If you are lucky and your floors are cupped like a washboard, they have the unique ability of being able to flatten out over time, which means you can avoid replacement. Most people have to wait a week for the water to dry out, which is then a good time to call in a flooring contractor.

The flooring contractor will perform a moisture test, and depending on the result, you may have to wait a few extra weeks because of how long it takes the water to dry. There isn’t much of anything to be done during this time. But after the moisture readings are consistent throughout the whole room, the process of repair or refinishing can begin.

It’s very important that your contractor doesn’t sand your floors before the floor is completely dry. If they do it anyway, you will unfortunately be left with something called crowning, which is basically the effect of cupping but in reverse.

If you don’t address potential water damage to your hardwood, the structure of your home can be at risk due to the growth of mold. Mold grows and spreads very quickly and will eat away at anything in its path.

Solutions and Prevention

It’s not the end of the world (at least not yet!). If you’re quick enough to react, you can usually get away with not having to pay for replacement hardwood when there is damage from salt and or snow.

Put a heavy rug in front of your door and in the doorway. Rather than salting the outside of your door, having rugs in place is extremely valuable. Wipe your shoes on the rugs.

Knock snow, salt, dirt, and other particles off your shoes before entering. Most people have something near the door that they can kick a few times. The force of the kick is able to get rid of most unwanted things.

Remove shoes upon entry. In most of the world, this is common sense. But here in America, most people wear their shoes anywhere in the home. With respect to the longevity of your hardwood, this is a big no-no.

Have waterproof mats available at the door. Once you’ve kicked nasty things off your shoes, and wiped them on the rug, you should then remove your shoes and put them onto a waterproof mat where they are able to safely dry out.

Have water-absorbent cloths nearby. The entrance of your home is where most issues start, so you should have cloths or towels at the door ready to wipe up any excess snow, dirt, water, etc., as needed.

Vacuum your hardwood floors regularly. You already are familiar with vacuuming carpet, but hardwood can also be vacuumed. This is a great way to get rid of salt, sand, dirt, and even water in some cases. It’s best to have a vacuum made for hardwood floors.

Have a roofing contractor come by during the winter. Your roofing contractor will easily be able to identify ice damming or the potential of it and find solutions with you so you don’t have to worry about leaks. And if there’s no issue, which there often isn’t, it won’t cost much at all for them to come by and just spend a few minutes with you finding that out.

Use hardwood floor cleaning products. A popular DIY solution that totally shouldn’t be used is vinegar, which often leaves a residue of its own. Be careful about the products that you use!

Contact your flooring contractor for advice. Your flooring contractor will be able to figure out if replacements are needed or if sanding, refinishing, and filling in splintered or corroded areas is possible.

Final Thoughts

Overall, hardwood floors are extremely durable, especially when compared to their carpet counterparts. There are only a small amount of drawbacks, and dealing with salt and snow is one of those drawbacks. The best way to manage the issue is by preventing it from happening in the first place. And if you follow the tips in this blog post, you will definitely be able to do that.

If you’re in Colorado and you haven’t already done so, you can get a quote on your unique flooring needs by using this link or by calling us at (800) 639-3006.

Blackgum, also called black tupelo, tupelo gum, or just tupelo, is a tree that loves to grow in water and water-soaked soils. In fact, the genus Nyssa is the name of a water nymph. The tree grows throughout the eastern states, from Maine to Texas. Tupelo, Miss., (Elvis’ birthplace) was named after this tree. A close relative is water tupelo (Nyssa aquatica) which has nearly the same characteristics. Honey from water tupelo is highly prized. The tree in the forest is often 3 feet in diameter and 80 feet tall. Some of the trees are more than 400 years old. Unlike most trees, the tupelo trees are either male or female, with flowers being abundant on the female trees. It is not unusual for the larger, older tree to be hollow due to decay fungi; yet the tree can live with this condition for hundreds of years.

The wood itself is characterized by interlocked grain (the grain swirls every which way), which leads to warp when drying, warping in use when the MC changes, and difficulty when machining. In the past, blackgum was used for oxen yokes and chopping bowls due to the toughness resulting from the interlocked grain. Today, although this is not an outstanding, beautiful appearing species, it still is widely used for furniture, cabinets, caskets, and railroad ties. Carvers of duck decoys also appreciate this wood.

Processing suggestions and characteristics

Weight: Blackgum has a dry specific gravity (SG) of 0.52. The weight, when dry, is 32 pounds per cubic foot or about 2.6 pounds per board foot.

Strength: For dry wood, the ultimate strength (MOR) is 9,600 psi, stiffness (MOE) is 1.20 million psi, and hardness is 810 pounds. Interlocked grain means that splitting is very difficult. Nailing is also difficult, as the interlocked grain wants to change the nail’s direction. Pre-boring holes for nails and screws can be helpful.

Drying and stability: The wood dries with considerable difficulty due to warp, especially twisting. End coating is suggested, even with 4/4 stock. Shrinkage in drying is moderate. Overall shrinkage from green to 6 percent MC is 6.2 percent tangentially (the width in flatsawn lumber) and 3.5 percent radially (the thickness of flatsawn lumber). Once dried, the wood does move slightly if there are large RH changes or if the MC is not matched to the environment’s EMC conditions. A typical, desired, final moisture range is 6.0 to 7.5 percent MC. Once dry, it takes a 4.5 percent MC change to result in 1 percent size change tangentially and 8 percent MC change radially. 

Machining and gluing: This wood machines moderately well, with some chipped grain due to the interlocked grain. If over-dried, the wood appears to be quite brittle. Sharp tools are essential. This wood glues without much difficulty if surfaces are perfectly flat. However, if the MC changes and the pieces warp a small amount, it is difficult to obtain high-strength joints.

Grain and color: The wood, which is mostly heartwood, is grayish brown to a light brown with hints of yellow at times. The finished surface is smooth, but without natural luster. If the lumber is quartersawn, blackgum exhibits a very attractive figure. The wood is odorless. However, when the tree is bacterially infected, sawn wood will have a putrid odor and is noticeable (and objectionable) in dry wood products especially when the humidity is high.

This post appeared first on http://www.woodworkingnetwork.com

As 2021 comes to an end, so too starts a new year. Hopefully we all have some goals in place. Since many people are spending lots of their time indoors, remodeling projects and home sales have skyrocketed. Many people are investing in comfortable living. There are some labor shortages and supply chain challenges, however, the flooring industry is expecting roughly 3-8% in growth for the year even in the face of all the uncertainty in the current global market situation.

With 2022 comes tons of opportunities for new flooring trends. This blog post will cover everything that is anticipated to happen this year in the flooring industry.

Let’s get started.

Bold and Varied Colors

Source: Unsplash

Rustic Textures

What does rustic really mean? It’s actually a pretty broad term that a variety of different designs fall into. In this context, it describes a rough, aged, casual, and natural feel.

Rustic designs used to be a thing in the past but their popularity died down. Now, it’s back again! Rustic textures like wire-brushed, distressed planks, and hand-scraped planks are what we are seeing being used the most.

They have a unique beauty that can be easily appreciated by anyone. What’s cool about distressed planks in particular is that the dents and scrapes point towards a life in the past which adds a lot of personality to the room.

Source: Pinterest

Engineered Wood

It was popular last year and it will be popular this year, too. The closest thing that you can get to natural and solid hardwood is engineered hardwood. There is actually a very thin hardwood veneer layer that goes on top of the fiberboard or plywood, which is man-made. A great bonus of engineered wood is its durability since it’s technically real wood.

Oftentimes, the veneer is UV-cured which makes the floor more durable and stronger compared to the real thing. Therefore, it’s much less likely to take on any scratches, dings, and dents, even in popular places in your home where it sees the most use. In addition to that, engineered wood has much more resistance to moisture than natural and solid hardwood.

It’s ready when it comes out of the box and it’s very easy for homeowners to install themselves if they choose to do so. It doesn’t require any extra finishing/refinishing. It’s affordable, and best of all, engineered wood looks great with almost anything.

Source: Forbes

Bleach or Whitewashed Floors

Bleach and whitewashed floors are extremely popular. They go best in contemporary spaces where a smooth, wide, and light hardwood floor goes perfectly with the theme. Over time, hardwoods naturally will develop a patina and darken when they age, however, with floors that have been whitewashed or bleached, this doesn’t happen.

Lighter wood is known for brightening up spaces while providing a relaxed vibe. The floor appears less occupied and therefore works especially well in a minimalist theme. It complements quiet and subdued spaces while also acting as the backdrop for a more vibrant room.

When bleached or whitewashed, floors lose their color and become truly white. Just don’t use it on red oaks or exotics because the red oaks will retain a light pink and the exotics will just be distorted.

They are stylish and provide a fresh, airy, and light look for modern, coastal, and contemporary themes. The white gives a great touch of color while highlighting the natural beauty and graining of the wood.

Source: Pinterest

Matte-Finished Wood Floors

While satin has been a very popular finish throughout the past few years, matte is predicted to rise in popularity this year dramatically. Some people think that matte floors can appear dull or flat, but in reality, it makes your floor look eye-catching and contemporary. It just depends on the quality of the floor that the matte finish is being applied on.

Matte-finished wood floors also appear natural and rustic. They don’t shine and have a realistic color which allows people to see the details of the grain. Matte floors were just featured in Vogue Magazine, which has spiked a serious interest in the concept.

With a matte finish, you get a very durable floor, hiding any wear and tear much better than traditional hardwood or its glossy finished flooring counterpart. Matte-finished hardwood provides a nice camouflage to hide messes and dirt. It’s very forgiving and allows you extra time to finally take out the broom.

Regardless of whether or not there are pets or kids in the house, floors aren’t perfect, but a matte-finish is a great way to go for durability and style. If you’re not into glossy finishes but are on the fence about whether you want to go with a matte finish, a satin finish is the next best thing.

Source: Pinterest

Smokey-Toned Wood Floor

A few years ago, the color gray made its mark in homes and offices alike. Now we’re seeing another trendy gray look. Smokey-toned wood floors add some character and drama to traditional solid hardwood. The look is very appealing and unique.

A lot of people like the edgy and rustic look that it offers while it still speaks to the traditional warm undertone that is seen in modern hardwood flooring options. One of the coolest parts about smokey-toned wood floors is that almost any species of wood can go through the process that gives the smokey design.

There is no need for applying stain because the color comes through the process it undergoes, which involves putting the planks in an isolated chamber where ammonia is released in the air, reacting to the wood, and creating the change in color. The dark tone is very pleasing to the eye.

Source: Shaw Flooring

Final Thoughts

We all love our homes and want to make them look their best. Your flooring is one of the first impressions that people entering your home will have, so why not strive to impress? If you’re interested in adding or updating hardwood flooring into your own home in the Denver area, our team at MacDonald Hardwoods is here to help. Contact us today to see how we can help.

Hardwood flooring may not be something you may be used to seeing as “trendy”. A theme for one year is often pretty much the same as the year before and the year after, right?

As it turns out, that’s not the case. Hardwood, in particular, continues to grow in popularity year after year, as cheaper quality flooring of various different types continues to degrade, forcing their owners to start looking for replacement options. More often than not, they will turn to hardwood flooring.

In this article, we will discuss the various leading trends for the year 2021 that people went with.

Buying Hardwood Flooring In General

For a long time, hardwood flooring had fallen out of style as people went with cheaper alternatives, such as notoriously cheap laminate wood and plastic tiles. It may have seemed like a good idea at the time to the buyer, with a rich number of ways to customize these that far exceed what wood is capable of, and the incredibly simple installation, but it came with a hidden cost.

As the years went by, the flooring would take the same wear and tear that any other type would, but much less well. In the case of the laminate flooring, made of nothing more than various cheap materials tightly pressed together, the beautiful design that they had printed onto it would often completely wear down and come off. Those fancy zebra stripes don’t look quite as good when they’re faded, peeling up, and covered in grime.

Water damage would also cause it to badly warp and even snap, with no real repair options besides tearing it all up and replacing it. These days, buyers have begun to rightly conclude that it isn’t worth all the hassle to continually replace it every decade or so.

Source: Macwoods.com

Engineered Hardwood

The first big trendsetter continues to be one of the newest ones. Engineered wood has a big appeal for many reasons. Unlike standard wood, it doesn’t have a tendency to warp, split, or crack over time.

Not only is it cheaper than using real wooden planks, it often exceeds the durability of unmodified wood. While it’s made of hardwood on the outside, it uses a special trick to increase the durability, where the wood is hydraulically pressed together under intense pressure, with a layer of veneer added afterward to seal the deal. This layer is built on top of a base of plywood going in opposing directions. Thanks to all this, when the wood does begin to show imperfections and wear down, you can simply sand it down to a new layer, just like regular planks. All this engineering can produce a floor that can be up to twice as strong as natural wood.

More than just cheaper, more durable, or environmentally friendly, engineered hardwood is also much, much easier to care for and maintain than real hardwood. While some do feel that they take away the “warmth” of wood, its benefits tend to outweigh that, at least for most who choose to use engineered hardwood.

Throughout 2021, the options for the different finishes, colors, and materials continued to increase. It continues to see increased use in parts of the house that would normally be forced to use a different material, particularly in kitchens and in bathrooms where moisture damage was typically a concern. Going into 2022, expect to see this trend continue.

Source: Forbes

Reclaimed Wood

Reclaimed wood sounds as straightforward as it is. It’s just old wood that’s been given new life and purpose. It is often taken from old buildings that were recently torn down or remodeled, like abandoned farmhouses and barns. Sometimes, the wood is actually existing engineered wood that’s been given new layers and treatment.

As of late, this wood has become harder to find through traditional means, so the producers have started using a clever trick, where they use the wood from just about any source they can find. The most popular source these days is to take it from old wine barrels that have fallen into disuse. Don’t worry, your floor won’t be smelling like wine!

This wood tells a story that can’t be easily replicated through artificial means. Each plank is potentially completely different from the other, ensuring that no two rooms with it employed appear the same. Not only are you saving the environment by using them, but you’re also giving your house a look that nobody can hope to match.

Source: Whole Log Lumber

American-Grown Wood Flooring

There was a period of time when it was just expected that the material used to build your home would come from the same country you’re building it in. As the world became more interconnected and international trade became even cheaper than producing at home, that began to fall away.

Now, there are a growing number of people who go out of their way to buy flooring that they know was created right here in this country. The reasons people would want this are numerous, but among the most popular are there’s a certain expectation of quality coming from American-made goods that you wouldn’t necessarily expect from foreign providers. You also get a sense that you’re supporting your local businesses, which is quickly becoming a big trend of its own.

There is no reason to suggest this trend will be slowing anytime soon. As Americans continue to rediscover their love for their own backyard, we expect this trend to continue to explode in popularity.

Source: Superior Flooring

Final Thoughts

2021 was a great year for trends. The pandemic forced many people to be in their homes far more than they had ever been before, which forced them to really take a good look at their surroundings. As a result, we’ve seen more radical changes in the past couple of years than we normally do in a full decade. As we begin to open up again, you can expect that urge for change in the environment to fade somewhat, but the lessons learned aren’t going anywhere anytime soon.

[Source: Unsplash]

Hardwood floors are a beautiful choice for flooring. Their durability and value retention are just a couple of the many reasons to use them. It’s good practice to clean once or twice a week to keep things nice and tidy. That said, care must be taken to not damage them when trying to do so. The use of the wrong product can  stain, scratch, weaken, or even destroy the boards over time. In this article, we will go over all the products you should avoid using, as well as talk about what you should be using instead.

Avoid Wet Mops

One of the worst things you can use on your floor is something you may be completely unaware of being a problem. Wood naturally absorbs water, especially when not given a good enough finish. By using a wet mop and bucket, much of the water you’re using on the surface to remove grime is going to get soaked up into the boards. This will cause the boards to swell, bend, and eventually even pop out of alignment altogether.

What to do instead

Start by vacuuming up the floor. Ditch the water entirely. Instead, use a dry microfiber mop head to sweep up the dirt, then follow it up with either a specially wetted microfiber mop head that uses proper wood floor cleaning solution. We recommend using the MacWoods hardwood floor cleaner as the cleaning solution for this case. If you don’t have the special mop or cleaning solution, the next best thing would be to lightly dampen a cloth with warm water before wiping down the floor. Excessive water can cause damage.

Don’t Use Steam to Clean

You should never use a steamer on your hardwood. This is a recipe for destruction, as just like with a wet mop, will eventually cause water damage and warp the boards. It’s actually even worse than a mop, as the water isn’t just passively sitting on top of the boards, but actively superheated and injected right between them. This will cause the wood to peel, flake, discolor, not to mention all the problems caused by just a wet mop alone.

What to use instead

As before, use a wood floor cleaning solution instead. If you’re steaming because you’re trying to clean a certain spot, just get down and use a rag with the solution. A little elbow grease often does the best job.

Vacuums Can Be Bad, Too

Vacuums are great for getting up all kinds of different dirt and debris. The problem isn’t the suction itself, but rather the beater bars as well as the hard plastic wheels on the back of the unit. Just like how you wouldn’t want to use a rolling office chair on hardwood without a rug, so too would you want to avoid using a vacuum without proper padding. 

What to use instead

A dustpan and broom will often work best here. You also can use a vacuum if you really want to, but If you’re going to use one, make sure that it has soft rubber wheels and that you turn off the beater bar before going over the wood. Use caution and you should be fine.

Using the Wrong Cleaning Solution

This is a situation where it may not even necessarily be your fault. There are a dearth of cleaning solutions that market themselves as safe to use on wood when they aren’t safe for that at all. Knowing what to use and what to avoid is vital for the longevity of the wood. The following is a list of the solutions that we don’t recommend you use.

Polishes

While this won’t necessarily damage your wood, it’s usually a bad idea to use it. While it will initially make the boards look brand new, it won’t last long. Eventually, it will lose the shine and leave an ugly and waxy floor. This now useless coating will need to be entirely sanded off before you can put any new coat on. Just steer clear if you can help it.

Ammonia

This is a solid NEVER for wood. Ammonia has tons of different uses all throughout the house, but hardwood floors are not one of them. The chemical will outright damage the wood by dissolving the very fibers in it, keeping it intact. 

Bleach

Speaking of bleach, this is another one for the “AVOID AT ALL COSTS” list. It can discolor the boards permanently, even when used in small amounts. There is no good use-case for this product on hardwood floors, you’re only setting yourself up for failure.

[Source: Unsplash]

Vinegar

Using vinegar and water as a homemade hardwood floor cleaning solution can have a negative effect on your hardwood floor. It’s important to remember that when you clean your hardwood floors, you aren’t actually cleaning the wood—you are cleaning the chemical finish on the wood. The finish is the protective layer of your hardwood floors.

Windex (And the Like)

It’s more useless than anything. Not only does this usually contain abrasive ingredients just like in ammonia that damage the floor, but it also won’t do much of anything beyond that. The cleaner simply isn’t designed to get anything off wood. If you want to use a spray, use the MacDonald Hardwoods Floor Cleaner. Take some of it and pour it into a spray bottle, then spray away. Use a microfiber cloth to wipe it off when done. This is much more effective, lets you tackle the problem the same way, and comes with none of the risks.

What Should I Use Instead?

MacDonald Hardwood Floor Cleaner, which you can pick up in our store, is a great option for cleaning hardwood floors. If you can’t get a hold of that, you can use a damp cloth (ideally, a microfiber cloth) with warm water to clean. 

Conclusion

Your wood floor is precious. It has a value that, when properly taken care of, can last full generations. As much as wood floors are usually known for being durable, there are still plenty of ways to successfully damage them, as outlined in this article. By avoiding the products listed here, you will be saving the value of your home, not to mention avoiding unnecessary repair costs.

[Source: Unsplash]

In the world of floor care, importance is often emphasized on protecting your hardwood floor from getting scratched and damaged by your furniture. All it takes is one careless drag of the chair across the floor to potentially leave a permanent mark on the wood. 

In this article, we will go over everything you need to know about good floor-friendly habits that will keep your hardwood looking as spotless as the day they were installed. Let’s get started. 

Take Off Your Shoes

This is already fairly common in many eastern countries. By taking off your shoes before stepping into a room in general, you’re preventing yourself from tracking in dirt and grime from outside. For hardwood floors specifically, the tracked-in moisture can seep into the floorboards and further damage them. Consider installing a shoe organizer of some kind so that you aren’t just leaving your shoes in a random corner.

Pick It Up

The simplest tip you can follow for keeping your floors unmarred involves simply being extra careful. Rather than dragging your couch across the floor when it comes time to redecorate, instead enlist somebody to help you carry the other end of it so that no part of the couch is touching the floor. You can’t leave marks if it never meets the floor in the first place!

Don’t Use Wheeled Furniture

The hard plastic wheels on your office chair, bench, or any such furnishing will quickly cause scratches if you’re just rolling around on it without protection. It’s just a terrible idea that you will regret as soon as you start doing it.

Buy an Area Rug

Area rugs are a good option if used strategically. By keeping your furniture on an area rug, you create a gap between the floor and legs of the furniture. In addition to protecting from scratches, it will also help keep dirt and other junk from getting spread all over the floor. Not to mention that a rug on top of a hardwood floor is always a pleasing visual. Don’t cover the entirety of your beautiful hardwood floor, only the places that have furniture on them. 

Redo the Finish Periodically

Over time, there is a small possibility that the finish can start to have small imperfections. When this happens, the floor in those spots becomes a little more susceptible to damage than it already was. When you start to see light scratches appear, that’s your cue that it’s time to get the finish redone. This will not only restore protection, but depending on the finish, it may even buff out many of the lighter scratches completely.

[Source: Unsplash]

Furniture Pads

Now the big one. If you’re not going to use a carpet, and often even if you do, you should also consider putting protectors on the bottom of the furniture legs to keep them from scratching the wood. If you’re really cheap, there’s always the old tennis ball trick when you put holes in them and then stick them on the ends of the legs, but there are much more elegant ways to do this than that.

Tap-On

A Tap-On protector is held on by a small tack or a hollowed-out nail. These are the most secure method of attaching pads. You will still need to be wary about breaking the pads however, as if the nail gets exposed, you will definitely get scratches in the floor.

Self-Adhesive

Self-Adhesive pads are the cheapest and easiest to find. All you need to do to attach them is peel off the paper or plastic cover and adhere it to the bottom of the legs. The downside to this convenience is that it won’t last nearly as long. Check on them periodically to ensure they’re still attached propyl and aren’t getting dirty.

Slip-On

These protectors work exactly like they sound. You just slide them right over the legs, like socks. Assuming they fit, they strike a good balance between durability and secureness.

There are also material types for the pads to consider.

Plastic

Plastic covers should generally be avoided if at all possible. They will wear down the finish on the hardwood over time and even create scratches – the very thing you’re trying to prevent.

Rubber

Rubber is a much better option, though not perfect. It’s best used on furniture like couches, anything that isn’t going to be moved too often. If you do use it on things like chairs, move them carefully, as you may leave scuff marks in the wood. On the up side, you will find it very difficult for it to slide around thanks to the rubber.

Felt

Felt pads are usually the best choice for hardwood. Their softness will prevent the finish on the wood from wearing out and there’s no real chance of any gouges being made. Just make sure you get pads that are decently thick, as ones that are too thin can wear down quickly and expose the legs back to the wood again.

Consider “Furniture Traffic”

 How often you’re moving your furniture around is a major factor in choosing what type of padding will be best for your situation. As you see, there is a wide array of different options for different use cases to consider. There are a few areas in particular where furniture traffic becomes the most important.

The dining room and kitchen space is one such location. Failing to choose the right pad for this will be the most disastrous as it’s typically where the most furniture movement is taking place. Self-Adhesive and Slip-On pads are going to wear down faster, so make sure you’re replacing them as needed.

The family room is another important place. Kids may be jumping about on the couch, as well as people simply throwing themselves onto it after a long day. These actions will shove around the furniture rather violently depending on their weight, so choosing a rubber pad may be the best option here. 

Conclusion

As you now understand, there are plenty of great ways to keep your hardwood floors safe no matter the occasion or situation. Homeowners have long since dealt with the frustration that comes from the interaction of floors and furniture, including scratches, dings, and everything in between. Most just deal with the problems as they come and don’t take steps to avoid them from happening again. A major bonus to take into consideration is that your property value can be lowered if damage can be detected. By following these tips, your floors will have no trouble lasting the test of time.

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Hardwood is one of the most attractive flooring materials you can get. No matter how you look at it, it will almost always add value to your house. In an ideal space, hardwood flooring can last anywhere from fifteen to thirty-five years, depending on how you maintain it. It is easily possible to do even better than that, as long as you invest some time and effort into periodic maintenance. 

There are many misconceptions that have formed over the years about the practicality of using hardwood flooring in a kitchen. In this article, we will be dispelling several of them and then go over our suggestions for what kinds of hardwood you may want to choose from.

Misconceptions

Many people feel that they are not allowed to install hardwood in their kitchen. It may seem as if this is a valid sentiment, but these fears are mostly unfounded. Let’s go over the misconceptions one by one.

They Can’t Handle Spills

While it’s true that wood isn’t great for constant spills, it is not anywhere near as bad as many believe. It’s one thing to have a spot that has dried out, that will definitely take more work, but generally speaking, you just need a broom or mop to get everything up. Even a large spill of something super sticky won’t require much more than standard cleaning supplies.

The bottom line is that unless you have a situation like a burst pipe, you won’t need to worry about it. Realistically, the worst-case scenario you’re likely to experience is needing a deep cleansing agent for something that permeated the wood.

They Can’t Handle Lots of Traffic

This myth is particularly ridiculous. It only makes sense in the mind of somebody who believes that there is exactly one type of wood in the whole world. If you use balsa wood as your flooring, it’s probably not going to last very long. The reality is that there are countless types of flooring geared for every situation you can think of, plus many different types of finishes to choose from that will further increase its durability. 

If the kitchen is one that is constantly in use, then all you need to do is choose wood that will stand up to that. There is no kitchen scenario, not even that of a restaurant kitchen, where foot traffic makes it impossible for any type of wood to be good for it.

They Stain Easily

Hardwood flooring isn’t much more stain-resistant than most other types of flooring. Very few materials can boast that they’re practically immune to stains, and just about none can say that they are fully protected. Just as is the case with spills, the best solution is to simply clean as soon as it happens. It holds up just fine as long as you aren’t purposefully leaving the mess around for extended periods of time. Use common sense and you won’t have any problems.

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Our Suggestions

Solid Hardwood

Regular solid wood floors are a popular choice for kitchens. Like any wood, they trap in heat more, making it much more comfortable to walk barefoot on them. Not to mention that they give a sense of natural beauty to any kitchen, regardless of whether it’s a contemporary or traditional style. The soft sheen to a properly finished flooring will contrast wonderfully with the shiny surfaces and hard materials throughout the rest of the kitchen. 

Engineered Hardwood

Engineered wood resembles regular solid wood, and in fact, is mostly still made of it. However, it’s put together in such a way, with softwood bound together and the grain of each layer running in different directions, that the strength and resilience of the wood are greatly enhanced. The quality level of the wood can be determined by simply looking at the depth of the top layer. The thicker this layer is, the better it will be in every way.

This wood is perfect for a kitchen environment that expects to have frequent and large spills. The wood is designed to resist solid wood’s natural tendency to expand, contract, and even bend as moisture seeps into it, keeping its shape and saving you potentially thousands on potential repairs and replacements. We have a full article on all the great benefits of engineered wood here.

Reclaimed Hardwood

Reclaimed wood is another option. It can come from either pure solid wood or used engineered wood. In many cases, the wood that is used is salvaged from old torn-down buildings such as abandoned barns and farmhouses. For a kitchen environment, reclaimed engineered wood will be the best choice. 

With the proper finish applied to it, reclaimed engineered wood will give you both a strong flooring that’s highly resistant to wear and tear as well as giving a unique vintage look that is difficult to fake. It’s also good for the environment, as it means that you’re giving the wood a new lease on life as well as reducing by just a bit how many trees need to be cut down.

Laminate

If you’re desperate and in need of cheap flooring, laminate is an option. It is usually not recommended though for a good number of reasons. The first one being that it just doesn’t look or feel as good as real wood. All it really is are artificial materials compressed tightly together. There’s typically no real wood in it and is usually completely flat with a design printed on it. Naturally, it is the least durable of any flooring. 

Within just a few years of use, the design on it will wear down and start to come off. It’s pretty much impossible to repair cleanly due to the fact that you can’t replace the design on it once it’s gone. Laminate wood also cannot be reused easily due to it, again, being entirely artificial. Once it wears out, there’s not much to do with it besides throwing it all out.

All that bashing aside, there are still a few upsides. For one, you can have any design you want on it. It doesn’t have to look like real wood at all. You could have zebra stripes or a brick pattern on it if you wanted to. You may also find it the easiest to clean due to it usually being completely flat. It’s also very easy to install thanks to the way they’re designed, with many of them having grooves to easily lock together with others. If you’re looking for something that you can install yourself, it could be the easiest option.

If you want to know more, we wrote a full article on laminate flooring here.

Conclusion

As long as you keep a few things in mind like understanding the risks and limitations, hardwood flooring can be a solid option for your kitchen. There is no need to give up on using wood just because of some unfounded worries.

[Image source: Unsplash]

It doesn’t matter if you’re looking at installing a brand new set of hardwood stairs or just renovating stairs that already exist, there’s a lot of information out there to help you make the right decisions on what you need. In this article, we will cover everything you need to know on wooden stairs and everything that goes into it.

What Are Stair Treads?

In short, a tread is simply a long plank of some material with a rounded edge for a front. It is most commonly made from wood, but it could also be composed of metal, plastic, or other materials. Your treads don’t have to be made of the same materials as the risers. In fact, some believe there are stylistic reasons to purposefully mismatch materials to create a particular look. 

There are many different factors to take into consideration when deciding on what style and type of tread you want. For example, not all stair treads are meant to be installed after the initial construction of the staircase, with some only best used during the construction of the house itself. You will want to choose a style that matches the type of house it’s going into. You will quickly learn if you were too hasty in deciding.

For wood treads specifically, there are a few particular choices that are most popular. 

• Red Oak is the easiest to get ahold of. It has a reddish-brown color to it and is considered strong and heavy. When you think of wood flooring, you’re probably thinking of this type.
• Knotty Pine is another type of wood that is commonly seen in businesses and some homes. While aesthetically very pleasing, pine is not the strongest material and will require more maintenance over time to maintain good looks.
• White Oak is one that has become popular in the past few decades. It has a similar strength to its red counterpart but boasts a more modern look with more straight and linear grain to it.

There are, naturally, many more types, but these should be enough to get you started. 

What Are Risers?

Stair risers are the vertical back piece of the steps. They’re the part where you’re stepping onto and putting most of your weight on. In most cases, a staircase in a home will have a riser for each step, but that’s not always true. Some staircases will have an open back and not use risers at all. The size of the stair riser matters a great deal in how safe the stairs are to climb. Risers that are too high can be very dangerous for the inattentive, like children and the elderly, not to mention people simply not looking. 

What Makes Hardwood Stairs Better Than Carpeting?

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While it’s impossible to claim that hardwood is simply better in every situation, it is typically the better choice. This is because of several reasons. 

First, and most obvious, they tend to look better. They’ll stay that way too for far longer than the lifetime of carpeting. Over time, regardless of how careful you are, after about ten years it will begin to show signs of wear. Eventually, it will need to be torn up and replaced entirely, costing you thousands of dollars and nullifying any savings you would have made over the hardwood.

Speaking of savings, that’s another area that hardwood is better for. The upfront cost will almost always be more expensive than carpeting, but due to the resilience of wood, there’s a good chance that you will never need to replace it entirely within your lifetime. Instead, you may just need to sand it down and revarnish it or some other sort of maintenance. Your wallet will thank you for it.

If you do need to pull up the wood, it probably isn’t because the wood has gone bad. Often, it’s just because you want something different for a change. You can then sell the wood as used and get a good return on your investment. For more on the problems with carpeting over hardwood in general, we have a full article on the subject.

Common Mistakes

You’ve decided that you do want to have hardwood flooring (You won’t regret it!), but you might not be fully aware of a lot of the pitfalls people make when it comes to flooring.

It Will Take More Than One Day

Don’t make the mistake of thinking that the work can be done in a single afternoon. Just because you have all the materials does not mean you have all the experience. Budget out at minimum a weekend to ensure that things not only get done on time but get done right the first time. As the old saying goes, “Measure twice, cut once.” The last thing you want to have happened is the need for redoing everything from scratch due to an avoidable mistake.

It Will Be More Expensive Up-Front, But Worth It

This was mentioned earlier, but it bears repeating. On paper, getting carpeting sounds like the better deal when it comes to price. The reality is that if it isn’t lasting as long, then it’s probably not holding up its value. We have a whole article on the subject here.

Getting the Finish Right Is Easy

With the ability to use MacDonald Hardwoods’ prefinished hardwood flooring, the job is easy. Normally, it can be a little difficult due to extra installation work. But with prefinished hardwood flooring, sanding and staining are done on the wood before it’s in your home. The materials you get are ready to go!

Consider NOT DIYing It

There is a temptation for many of us to try and save the cost of labor and do things ourselves. It’s admirable, but there are a lot of ways things can go wrong. If you are not completely sure of your abilities, you may end up in a situation where you spend more money fixing your mistakes than you would have spent just hiring an expert to do it right the first time.

Conclusion

In the end, you have to decide what will look best for your environment. When treated right, your flooring may even outlast you.  No matter what sort of wood you choose or what style you end up going with though, make sure that you won’t regret it a few years down the line. We at MacDonald Hardwoods are experts at helping YOU determine the perfect wood for your unique home. Reach out through email or give us a call and we will help you make the right decisions.