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With its durability and longevity, engineered wood flooring is a popular choice for homeowners. But, like any floor, that doesn’t mean it’s invincible. Without tender love and care, engineered wood is prone to damage like scratches, stains, dullness and general wear. 

So, if you’re sitting there thinking ‘how do you clean engineered hardwood floors?’ Then this blog post is for you. 

Let’s explore how you can keep your floor clean, shiny and long-lasting.

Jump To Section:

• How to Prevent Damage to Engineered Wood Floors
• How to Clean Engineered Wood Floors
• The Best Way to Mop Engineered Wood Floors
• How to Deep Clean Engineered Wood Floors
• How to Remove Scratches from Engineered Wood Floors
• Frequently Asked Questions
• Must-Have Products to Protect and Maintain Your Engineered Wood Floors

How to Prevent Damage to Engineered Wood Floors

It might seem impossible to keep your engineered wood floor looking perfect. Especially, if you’ve got little ones running about, a partner who forgets to take their shoes off and pets prone to ‘zoomies’. But, it isn’t! 

Preventing damage begins at the front (and back) door. With a doormat and a shoes-off policy, you’re stopping dirt and grit from entering your home. Stones and debris can get stuck in your shoes, leaving scratches against your engineered wood’s surface. It’s best to wipe your outdoor shoes on your doormat and trade them for cosy slippers.

Engineered wood flooring and pets aren’t the best of friends either. But, there are ways to lessen any damage (or at least disguise it). Trimming your pets’ claws regularly will help prevent scratches and placing mats under their bowls will reduce damage from stains or spills. Of course, spills and stains of any kind should be wiped up immediately too.

The type of finish you choose for your engineered wood will also offer protection. Brushed and oiled effects are perfect for hiding scratches, while the water resistance of lacquered wood will help with accidents and spills.

You’ll want to place large area rugs under heavy furniture like sofas or dining tables. These will stop them from scratching and leaving dents in the engineered wood. You can also use protective pads on the feet of your furniture to help long-term. 

It’s recommended that rugs and furniture be rotated regularly. This will help evenly distribute wear and tear. When moving furniture, remember to lift it. If you drag heavy pieces, they’ll likely leave marks that are difficult to remove – if not impossible.

But why is it important to prevent damage?

Like anything that isn’t cared for properly, it won’t last long. The durability and longevity of engineered wood floors are dependent on you taking proactive steps. While it isn’t the most expensive material, engineered wood floors aren’t cheap. You don’t want to be spending more money on repairs when simply caring for them properly will keep them beautiful and functional for years to come.

How to Clean Engineered Wood Floors

Once or twice a week, you should gently sweep or vacuum your floor. This will stop dirt and dust from building up. When it comes to mopping your engineered wood, make sure the mop is damp and not soaking wet. This only needs to be done once in a while to remove more persistent dirt. 

You’ll also want to use soft attachments and brushes to prevent scratching the surface. Microfibre mops are good, but they aren’t a must-have. Anything soft will do the job!

The Best Way to Mop Engineered Wood Floors

Unlike solid wood, engineered wood flooring has a layered construction that offers better moisture resistance. However, that’s not to say engineered wood is waterproof. Excessive water exposure can cause serious problems including:

• Warping and buckling from water seeping into the seams, causing planks to swell and lift
• Delamination, which is when moisture weakens the adhesive layers and causes them to separate
• Staining and discolouration developing from the floor not drying properly.

To avoid these issues, it’s important that you use the right mopping method.

• Gather your supplies: a soft or microfibre mop, two buckets, a pH-neutral wood floor cleaner and a dry microfibre cloth or mop.
• Fill one bucket with clean, warm water and mix in a small amount of wood-safe cleaner.
• Fill the second bucket with clean water for rinsing.
• Dip your mop into the cleaning solution, then wring it out thoroughly until it’s just damp.
• Mop in the direction of the wood grain to prevent streaking.
• Rinse the mop in the second bucket to remove the dirt before repeating the process.
• Once clean, you need to use a dry microfibre cloth or mop to remove any remaining moisture. Opening windows or turning on fans can help to speed up drying too.

How to Deep Clean Engineered Wood Floors

Regular maintenance, such as vacuuming and damp mopping, can keep your engineered wood flooring looking great. But, over time your finish can become dull or cloudy from product buildup. Stubborn stains can refuse to budge with regular cleaning. Dust and debris can also find their way into crevices and joints. And this is when a deep clean is needed.

You can easily deep clean your engineered wood floors by:

• Moving your furniture and rugs to access the entire floor
• Vacuuming thoroughly to remove loose dirt and debris
• Using an engineered wood-specific cleaner to avoid damaging your floor
• Lightly dampening a mop with the cleaner
• Wiping in the direction of the wood grain to prevent streaks.

Deep cleaning can remove some of the protective layers, so it’s important to refinish your floor afterwards. 

For oiled finishes, you’ll need to use a specialised wood oil to restore its lustre. Apply a thin layer with a clean cloth or buffing pad and allow it to dry as instructed.

For lacquered finishes, you should use a water-based polish or refresher designed specifically for lacquered floors. Apply it with a microfibre mop in even strokes before letting it dry completely. 

By deep cleaning every 3-6 months, you’ll maintain the integrity of the wood and finish, preventing your engineered wood flooring from long-term damage!

How to Remove Scratches from Engineered Wood Floors

Known for being durable, engineered wood, like any wooden surface, can still develop scratches over time. 

The most common culprits for scratches can come from dragging furniture without protective pads across your floor, pet claws, sharp or heavy footwear, dirt and debris as well as improper cleaning. 

For light surface scratches, there are some simple DIY solutions that can help minimise their appearance. 

• Touch-up pens are available in various wood tones. These can help blend small scratches into the surrounding area. All you need to do is apply the pen over the scratch, let it dry and gently buff the area with a soft cloth.
• Applying a small amount of wood oil or polish can help darken shallow scratches. Simply use a microfibre cloth to rub the oil into the scratch, following the grain of the wood. Allow it to be absorbed before wiping off any excess.
• Wax filler sticks are perfect for deeper scratches as they fill in the damaged area, creating a smooth finish. You just need to choose a colour that matches your flooring, rub the wax into the scratch and buff the area until it’s blended.

Keep in mind that for more severe damage, you’ll need to seek professional help. Deep gouges or dents may require professional repair or board replacements. Extensive scratching across large areas can make DIY solutions impractical. Water damage or warping should also be assessed by a flooring specialist to prevent further deterioration.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you steam mop engineered wood floors?

Using a steam mop on engineered wood floors will cause excessive moisture to seep into the wood. This can lead to warping and swelling. The high temperature of steam can also weaken the adhesives that hold the layers of engineered wood together.

What’s the best cleaner for engineered wood floors?

There are a lot of cleaners specific to engineered wood floors that you can use. Products with a pH-neutral formula are best as they don’t contain harsh chemicals that could damage your floor’s finish.

How often should you clean engineered wood floors?

Once or twice a week with a soft-brush vacuum or broom and a weekly or fortnightly damp mopping should be enough to keep your floor in pristine condition. 

We also recommend a deep clean every 3-6 months to keep on top of any debris build-up.

How do you remove stubborn stains or scratches?

You can remove stubborn stains from wood flooring by gently blotting the area with a bit of pH-neutral engineered wood cleaner. For tougher stains, try a diluted solution of mild dish soap and water. But, we recommend testing a small, discreet area of your floor first. Just to make sure it won’t damage your finish!

For scratches, a colour-matched wax stick or touch-up marker can help mask the scratch. But for scratches that go beyond the surface, you might need to use a wood repair kit or consult a professional.

Always check your floor manufacturer’s guide before using a new product on your floor!

Must-Have Products to Protect and Maintain Your Engineered Wood Floors

Designed to deliver gentle and effective care, our must-have cleaning and maintenance products can prolong the beauty and life of your engineered wood flooring. 

We offer intensive wood cleaner for stubborn stains as well as a natural wood soap for regular cleaning. For deep cleaning and care, we also offer a wax and clean solution.

 For stubborn stains and dirt, we offer an Intensive Cleaner for wood flooring. For regular cleaning, our natural Wood Flooring Soap will do a great job getting rid of dirt. To top it all off, we offer a Wax & Clean solution to bring your engineered wood to life.

Get Social

Still stuck about how to clean engineered wood? Get in touch with our friendly flooring experts and they’ll help you out.

Don’t forget to follow us on Instagram, where you can tag us using #MyLuxuryFloor to show off your beautifully maintained engineered wood floor. You can also check out our TikTok and mention us @luxuryflooringfurnishing for more advice and inspiration.

The post How to Clean and Care for Engineered Wood Flooring appeared first on Blog & Advice Centre – Luxury Flooring.

This post appeared first on https://www.luxuryflooringandfurnishings.co.uk

Osage orange (Maclura pomifera) derived its common name from the Osage Indians in Oklahoma and Texas and the orange-smelling fruits. The Latin name comes from William Maclura, an American geologist (1763-1840), and from the grapefruit-size, heavily wrinkled, spherical pomes or apples (inedible for humans) it produces. Many a farm child has used these fruits for baseballs!

The tree was native to Arkansas, Oklahoma, and Texas, but in the last century the tree has “escaped” and is found throughout the U.S. It is most commonly known as Osage orange, but other names include hedge, hedge-apple, yellow-wood, bowwood, Osage apple, and bodark (from the French bois d’arc, meaning bow wood). 

The sharp thorns of this tree led to its planting for hedgerows that performed as excellent fences for cattle. It also was widely planted to stabilize erosion during the Dust Bowl.

The extremely high strength of this wood led to its use for archery bows and for wheel rims and axle hubs for wagons. It is probably the most naturally decay resistant species in North America. 

Yet it seems terrible to use such a beautiful wood for non-appearance items. The beautiful coloring has led to limited use for turnings and novelties, such as wooden pens, as well as for accent wood in musical instruments, substituting for ebony at times. 
The root wood and bark, and to a lesser extent the wood itself, have a great amount of yellow coloring that can be extracted in hot water and used as dye. Native Americans used this coloring. In World War I, the dye was used for khaki coloring. 

Processing suggestions and characteristics
Density: Osage orange averages about 50 pounds per cubic foot at 7 percent MC. This is 30 percent heavier than oak! KD lumber, 1 inch thickness, weighs over 4 pounds per board foot.

Drying: This wood must be dried slowly to avoid checking. However, it does dry without much warp. End coating is essential. Treat 4/4 Osage orange like 8/4 red oak. Shed drying of green lumber before kiln drying is probably best. Shrinkage in drying is about 5 percent; quite low, especially considering its density.

Gluing and machining: Gluing is easy with most adhesives. Machining is difficult due to the high density, but with sharp tools and patience, machining and the finish obtained is excellent with a high luster. 

Stability: Osage orange is subject to very small size changes when the MC changes — about 1 percent size change for each 7 percent MC change across the grain parallel to the rings (tangentially), and about 1 percent size change for each 9 percent MC change across the rings (radially). 

Strength: The bending strength (MOR) is over 20,000 psi. Hardness is around 2,000 pounds. Stiffness (MOE) averages 1.8 million psi.

Color and grain: The wood is ring porous, like oak and ash, so it has a strong grain appearance. The heartwood color is golden yellow, but this color does age slowly toward a russet brown. The appearance is exceptionally lustrous.

This post appeared first on http://www.woodworkingnetwork.com

Driven by past success and a desire to tackle climate change, we decided to partner with Carma in April 2024. With their help, we’ve been able to plant 1 tree for every flooring order and we’re proud to share that over 14,500 trees have been planted. 

But our reforestation mission didn’t start there. We partnered with Ecologi in December 2022 and launched our Christmas Plant a Tree initiative. Throughout the month, for every order placed, we planted a tree. In total, over 1,000 trees were planted!  

For World Environment Day in June 2023, we ran a week-long initiative with 549 trees planted.  

Our Trees

Over the last few years, we’ve planted 14,500 trees – and counting – thanks to our past and present tree planting partners.  

Using their research and evidence, our partners have planted our trees where they’ve been needed the most, splitting them across the UK and East Africa in countries like Ethiopia, Kenya, Mozambique and Madagascar. 

Our planet

Climate change has been an issue for a long time, but it wasn’t until the mid-2010s that it became a mainstream discussion and people finally realised just how much our planet has changed. In fact, nowadays it’s the norm for the news to report on droughts, flooding, wildfires, and other natural disasters heavily influenced by climate change.  

With human activities like greenhouse gas emissions and deforestation constantly worsening the Earth’s climate, it’s no surprise that the planet is in trouble. Especially when 2024 has been recorded as the hottest year, showing just how important it is to try and reverse – or at the very least slow down – climate change.  

Why are trees important?

Forests are crucial in our fight against climate change. Without them, we’ll lose.  

Trees absorb carbon dioxide, which helps to offset emissions caused by transportation, factories and energy production. They release oxygen and filter pollutants, regulate temperatures by providing shade and they maintain ecosystems by offering habitats to countless species. Green spaces are important for our health and wellbeing too. 

And that’s only naming a few of the benefits trees and forests have to offer the planet! 

How planting trees can save the world

Large-scale reforestation and afforestation (planting trees in deforested or new areas) can offset emissions from industries, transport and deforestation.  Over time, this significantly contributes to reversing environmental damage and ensuring a brighter future for us all.  

Giving Back to the Planet

We know that changing the world takes teamwork, time and commitment, which is why we’re doing more than just planting trees.  

Not only is our sample packaging 100% recyclable, having replaced our plastic polystyrene bags a long time ago, but we’re also determined to leave a smaller carbon footprint. As a result, we’ve been able to fund reforestation projects and energy projects across the globe. 

But giving back to our community and planet doesn’t end there! 

Check out our sustainability page for all the latest news and to find out more about our projects.  

Get Social

Don’t forget to follow us on Instagram and TikTok for all the latest flooring content and updates on how we’re doing our bit for the planet. 

The post How Far We’ve Come in Our Tree Planting Journey appeared first on Blog & Advice Centre – Luxury Flooring.

This post appeared first on https://www.luxuryflooringandfurnishings.co.uk

If you’ve got your heart set on a floor that looks like real wood, you might want to compare engineered wood flooring vs laminate flooring. Both options are durable and boast the grains, knots and colour variation of real oak. However, each floor has its differences when it comes to ease of installation, water-resistance, scratch-resistance and cost.
In this blog, we detail the pros and cons of engineered wood flooring and laminate flooring and what each delivers when it comes to durability, maintenance, room suitability and more. So, let’s dive in!

What’s The Difference Between Laminate and Engineered Wood Flooring?

When thinking about engineered wood flooring vs laminate there are a few key differences to consider.

Engineered wood flooring is constructed from either softwood, plywood or HDF (high-density fibreboard) which creates a strong, sturdy base. The base is then topped with a thin veneer of real oak. This multi-layered construction means engineered wood boasts all the beauty of solid wood but with a much lower price tag!

Engineered wood flooring is finished with either an oil or a lacquer. An oiled finish provides a beautiful, natural look but minimal water-resistance as it sinks into the wood. A lacquered finish creates a water-resistant barrier on the surface of the wood which provides a glossy sheen.

Laminate flooring is made from a base of HDF which ensures the floor is durable enough to withstand any knocks and bumps. The base is also given a high-performance backing layer to prevent the floor from warping. 

Once the base is complete, a photographic layer is added on top to create the illusion of a wood or stone floor. The laminate is protected by a transparent, scratch-resistant and water-resistant coating. 

With all the durability of a water-resistant floor and the aesthetic of wood or stone, laminate is a fantastic alternative to real oak or slate and costs a fraction of the price!

Pros and Cons of Laminate Flooring

There are lots of reasons to choose laminate flooring – it’s affordable, easy to clean and durable enough to handle daily life. But that doesn’t mean it’s the right choice for you. Read on for the pros and cons of laminate flooring.

Benefits of Laminate Flooring

• Affordability – Laminate is one of the most affordable floors available, making it ideal if you want a lovely new floor but you have a tight budget. 
• Easy to install – Most laminate floors are fitted with a handy click-fit system, allowing you to simply ‘click’ the boards into place like a jigsaw.
• Easy to maintain – Laminate doesn’t need much maintenance to keep it looking clean and fresh. A quick sweep and a weekly mop will do the job!
• Durability – Laminate is extremely hardwearing, making it perfect if you’ve got kids or pets at home.
• Water-resistance – Laminate is water-resistant, so it’s ideal for areas like the kitchen or dining room, where spills are likely.
• Range of designs – Laminate is available in a variety of styles and colours, so you’ll find a floor to suit any decor.
• Looks like real wood or stone – Laminate is a brilliant alternative if you love the look of natural materials like oak or slate but your budget won’t stretch to the real thing.
• Underfloor heating compatible – Underfloor heating works wonderfully under laminate, so you’ll stay toasty, whatever the weather!

Disadvantages of Laminate Flooring

• Can’t sand and refinish – Unlike wood flooring, laminate can’t be sanded and refinished when signs of age appear. This means that when your floor starts to look worn, you’ll need to replace it.
• Thinner than other floors – Laminate flooring ranges from between 6-12mm thick which means it’s often thinner than other floors like solid and engineered wood.
• Shorter lifespan than other floors –  As laminate can’t be refinished it may not last as long as a solid or engineered wood floor.
• Not a natural product – Unlike solid wood, laminate flooring is manmade, so it might not be ideal if your heart is set on natural materials.

Pros and Cons of Engineered Wood Flooring

Engineered Wood flooring boasts all the beauty and character of real oak, costs less than solid wood and lasts for decades. That said, it might not be the ideal choice for your home. Let’s look at the pros and cons of engineered wood flooring.

Benefits of Engineered Wood Flooring

• Affordability – Engineered wood has the same natural look and feel as solid wood but comes with a slightly lower price tag. This means it’s a great choice if you want a real wood floor but you’re working with a smaller budget.
• Durability – Engineered wood is extremely durable and unlike solid wood it can resist changes to moisture and humidity. This means you can use it for areas where solid wood isn’t ideal, like the kitchen, conservatory or summer house.
• Long lifespan – Engineered wood can be sanded and refinished when it starts showing signs of age. As a result, engineered wood lasts longer than LVT and laminate flooring, usually 30+ years.
• Natural materials – Unlike wood effect LVT and laminate flooring, engineered wood contains natural wood, making it ideal if you prefer real materials to man-made ones. 
• Range of options – Engineered wood is available in a range of colours, from natural wood shades to white and grey. You can also choose from a variety of styles, so whether you love the look of straight plank, herringbone, chevron or versailles, you’ll find a gorgeous floor you’ll adore.
• Underfloor heating compatible – Unlike solid wood, engineered wood flooring can be fitted over underfloor heating, so you’ll never worry about cold feet again! 

Disadvantages of Engineered Wood Flooring

• Not always water-resistant – Unlike LVT and laminate flooring, engineered wood isn’t always resistant to water. If you choose a lacquered finish, the lacquer will protect against splashes and spills. However, you won’t get the same water-resistance with an oiled engineered wood floor.  
• Not scratch-resistant – Engineered wood isn’t as resistant to scratches as some LVT and laminate floors are, so it’s not always best if you have pets at home. But, if you’re sold on an engineered wood floor, a brushed floor is a great alternative, as the textured effect will disguise scratches. Be sure to opt for an oiled finish, as lacquer will highlight any scratches!
• Shorter lifespan than solid wood –  Engineered wood can last for more than 30 years. However, solid wood has a much longer lifespan and can usually be sanded and refinished more times than engineered wood. 
• Takes time to install – As long as you’ve done your research and prep, there’s no reason you can’t install your own engineered wood floor. But whether you’re DIY-ing it or you’ve hired a professional, it’s worth noting it will take longer to fit than laminate or LVT flooring. 
• Not the cheapest option – While engineered wood flooring is more affordable than solid wood, it still costs a bit more than LVT and laminate flooring. If your renovation budget is tight, engineered wood might not be ideal.

Durability and Maintenance

If you’re weighing up engineered wood flooring versus laminate, you might be wondering how the two compare on durability. Here, we break down everything you need to know. 

Laminate is extremely durable which makes it ideal for homes with kids and pets. Its water-resistant surface means a dropped sippy cup or your dog’s post-shower shake-off can be cleaned up quickly, leaving your floor good as new. Check out our guide to maintaining laminate flooring for our top tips! 

Laminate is also scratch-resistant, so anything from a case of dog ‘zoomies’ to your little one’s toy car races won’t leave a lasting mark. 

The one thing to keep in mind about laminate is that while it’s not easy to damage it, once any damage is done, you’ll need to replace the affected boards. 

Engineered wood is hardwearing but doesn’t offer the scratch-resistance or water-resistance that laminate does, so it’s important to consider this if you have kids or four-legged friends. 

If you want a wood floor but you know scratches will be inevitable, go for a brushed and oiled floor to make sure any marks are hidden by the texture of the brushed wood. If you’re sold on real wood but need protection from splashes and spills, a lacquered engineered wood floor is the one for you. 
The good thing about choosing engineered wood flooring is that it can be sanded and refinished if any damage occurs, so you won’t have to replace any planks or worry about replacing your whole floor. But, before you try that, remember to read our guide to removing stains from engineered wood flooring!

Cost Comparison

Cost is another factor in the engineered wood flooring vs laminate comparison.

Laminate flooring costs less to make than wood and LVT, making it the most affordable flooring option on the market. Prices for our laminate floors start from just £12.99m². Laminate is also easier and quicker to install than engineered wood, which means you can fit it yourself and save on installation fees. 

Engineered wood is more expensive to produce than laminate flooring, so naturally it costs a bit more. Our engineered wood floors start from £25.99m², although you might be able to snap one up for less in one of our sales! Keep in mind that fitting engineered wood can be time-consuming, so if you’re planning to hire a professional fitter, you’ll need to budget for labour costs too.

Suitability for Different Rooms

Being water-safe and scratch-resistant, laminate is suitable for all kinds of rooms, including areas where spills are likely and where temperatures and humidity fluctuate, such as your kitchen or conservatory. However, it’s not completely waterproof, so we don’t recommend installing it in bathrooms. 

Engineered wood’s hardwearing nature makes it ideal for areas with lots of people coming and going, like living rooms and hallways. However, it’s not designed to cope with lots of moisture, so avoid moisture-prone areas like the bathroom. And remember, if you want to fit engineered wood in your dining room or kitchen, be sure to choose a lacquered finish to protect your floor from splashes and spills.

Which Is the Most Realistic?

When comparing engineered wood flooring vs laminate for authenticity, engineered wood comes out on top. The real oak layer boasts the unrivalled beauty of wood, giving your floor the look and feel of solid oak. 
Laminate has come a long way since the 80s and no longer has a reputation for looking cheap or fake. Wood effect laminate does a great job of mimicking the patterns and colours of real oak, while embossing creates texture. That said, nothing can match the awe-inspiring beauty of a real wood floor.

Underfloor Heating Compatibility

If you’re wondering about underfloor heating in the engineered wood flooring vs laminate comparison, we have good news! Both engineered wood and laminate flooring can be used with underfloor heating. 

If you’re choosing laminate flooring, you’ll need a thermal foam underlay with a fairly low TOG rating. The higher the TOG rating, the more insulation your underlay will have and while insulation is great for keeping heat in, if you’re using it with underfloor heating it needs to be thin enough for the heat to escape your floor!
Read our blog to find out more about using engineered wood flooring with underfloor heating.

Which Flooring Is Best for Pet Owners?

If you’ve got a furry friend or two at home you’ll be wondering how each floor stacks up in the engineered wood flooring versus laminate debate. 

Spills, scratches and little accidents are inevitable with animals, especially puppies and kittens who aren’t fully toilet-trained! Laminate is not only scratch-safe and water-resistant, it’s quick and easy to clean too, making it ideal for pet owners. Laminate is also extremely affordable, so if your pet does manage to do some damage, replacing the affected boards won’t hit your bank balance hard. 

Engineered wood doesn’t offer the same durability as laminate, but that doesn’t mean it’s out of the question for pet owners. If you’re worried about accidents and spills, we recommend choosing a lacquered floor. Lacquered wood is water-resistant and you’ll find it easier to clean than an oiled wood floor. 

If your concern is scratches, opt for a brushed and oiled engineered wood floor. The brushed effect creates a textured look that’s perfect for hiding scratches. Just keep in mind that an oiled floor won’t be water-resistant, so you’ll need to act fast if there’s a spill!

Top tips for protecting your floor from pets:

• If choosing a floor that’s not scratch-resistant, use rugs or runners to protect your floor.
• Trim your pets’ claws regularly to prevent scratches.
• Put mats under food and water bowls to reduce the risk of stains when anything spills.

Which Is Better for You?

As you can see, when looking at engineered wood flooring versus laminate there are pros and cons to each option. What’s best for you will depend on your lifestyle, your household and your personal preference!

If you’re after an affordable floor that’s easy to clean and maintain and offers lots of durability, laminate flooring is the one for you. 

If you’re not on a tight budget and want an authentic-looking wood floor that’s designed to last decades, engineered wood will be a great choice. 

Whichever floor you choose, be sure to take advantage of our unlimited free samples. You can order as many as you like until you find your perfect match! 

Get Social

Still not sure which floor to choose? Get in touch with our friendly flooring experts, they’re always happy to help.

Don’t forget to follow us on Instagram and TikTok for all the latest news, blog posts and handy tips and tricks. Tag us on Instagram #MyLuxuryFloor and mention us on TikTok @luxuryflooringfurnishing. We’d love to see how your new floor has turned out! 

The post Laminate vs Engineered Wood Flooring: Comparison appeared first on Blog & Advice Centre – Luxury Flooring & Furnishings.

This post appeared first on https://www.luxuryflooringandfurnishings.co.uk

Sophie and Ollie recently bought their first home and were excited to make their cold and dark bedroom feel more inviting. Knowing they wanted an affordable, high-quality wood floor, they were impressed by our range of options and chose the very popular Painswick Biscuit Engineered Oak.

Why did you choose Luxury Flooring?

We wanted high-quality wooden flooring, and Luxury Flooring had an amazing range of options. There were so many shades to choose from that we knew we’d find something perfect for our space. On top of that, the pricing was super affordable, which made the decision even easier.

What was most important to you when designing your room?

Before, the room felt really dark and cold—the dark floor tiles and navy blue walls didn’t help! It lacked warmth and didn’t feel like a space where we could truly relax and unwind. We wanted to create a room that felt bright, cosy and inviting, a place that would instantly lift our mood when we walked in. 

We knew the flooring was going to play a massive role in changing that vibe. By choosing a lighter, natural wood tone, we could open up the space and make it feel more spacious and airy. It wasn’t just about aesthetics, though; we wanted the room to feel comfortable and practical too. The right flooring would set the foundation for everything else—the furniture, the décor and the overall ambiance.

What does your home situation look like?

This is our first home together as a couple, so it’s just the two of us here. That means we’ve had the freedom to really make the place our own.

What finishing touches make your room feel cosy?

A gorgeous rug really helped add some texture and warmth to the room. It pairs beautifully with the Painswick Biscuit engineered oak flooring, complementing its natural tones while adding a layer of depth to the space. We also invested in a statement bed frame with linen details, which not only makes the bed a true focal point but also adds an element of softness and elegance that makes the room feel incredibly cosy.

What qualities were you looking for in your new flooring? 

As first-time home buyers and renovators, we were navigating the balance between staying on budget and finding something that would truly elevate our home. Affordability was absolutely key, but we didn’t want to compromise on quality—this was an investment we wanted to last. When we compared Luxury Flooring’s prices with other brands, it was a no-brainer; they offered the perfect combination of cost-effectiveness and premium quality. What really reassured us were the glowing reviews from other customers, who consistently praised the durability, craftsmanship and look of the flooring. 

We were also looking for a wide range of options to ensure we could find the perfect shade and finish to match our vision. The variety at Luxury Flooring was impressive—there was something for every style and aesthetic. Another priority was finding flooring that was easy to maintain, especially as we’re new to homeownership and wanted something that wouldn’t require constant upkeep. The engineered oak we chose ticked all these boxes, giving us a durable, stylish and practical solution that we knew we could count on for years to come.

 Have you ever had a ‘panic moment’ with your floor? If so, how did you handle it? 

We definitely had a few panic moments when installing our floor, especially since we decided to go for the herringbone style. As first-time DIYers, we knew it would be a bit of a challenge, but there were times we thought we’d completely messed up! Herringbone can be tricky on the eyes, and there were moments where we thought the pattern looked off or that we’d made a mistake with the layout.

To handle it, we reminded ourselves to take things slowly and stay patient. We broke the project into sections rather than trying to tackle it all at once, which made it much more manageable. Taking regular breaks also helped give us a fresh perspective when our eyes started playing tricks on us. We also double-checked the pattern regularly as we went along, making sure everything was lining up properly before moving on to the next section. 

What advice would you give to someone looking to transform their floor?

Don’t rush the planning phase! Take your time to really consider the style and atmosphere you want to create in the room, as the flooring will set the tone for everything else. Look at the big picture—think about how the flooring will work with your existing furniture, wall colours, and the overall feel of your home. Ordering samples is a must; seeing and feeling the material in your actual space is so much more helpful than relying on online photos. It lets you see how the colour changes throughout the day with different lighting, which can make a huge difference.

Finally, don’t be afraid to ask the Luxury Flooring team questions. A little extra research upfront will help you avoid surprises down the road, and it’s worth taking the time to feel confident about your choice. Flooring is a big investment, but when done right, it can completely transform your space and be a feature you’ll love for years to come.

What’s your top DIY tip?

Measure twice, cut once! It’s such a cliché, but it really is the golden rule for any DIY project, especially when it comes to flooring. Taking the time to double-check your measurements can save you from wasting materials or running short, which can be both frustrating and expensive. If you’re working with tricky areas like alcoves or door frames, don’t rush—make templates if needed to ensure an accurate fit.

How has your new floor improved your home?

It has completely transformed our bedroom! What used to feel dark, gloomy, and uninviting is now light, calm and tranquil—a perfect space to relax at the end of a busy day. The new flooring has brought a warmth and natural beauty to the room that completely changed its atmosphere. The Painswick Biscuit engineered oak has a gorgeous, soft tone that reflects light beautifully, making the space feel brighter and more open.

Beyond aesthetics, the flooring has made the room feel more cohesive and in line with the style of the rest of our home. It’s amazing how such a simple change can make a room feel so much more polished and finished. On a practical level, the flooring is super easy to maintain, which has been a huge bonus for us as first-time homeowners.

  

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Jake and David wanted to add character and contemporary flair to their Georgian-style home in Lancashire. They had their hearts set on a pale oak floor and natural materials that would stand the test of time. Taking advantage of our free sample service, they compared lots of floors, before choosing the stunning Painswick Biscuit Engineered Oak.

Why did you choose Luxury Flooring?

We chose Luxury Flooring because they were competitive on price and we were really happy with the quality. We found that the free sample service really set Luxury Flooring apart from their competitors and the team were very friendly and responsive whenever we had any questions.

What was most important to you when designing your room?

The space had to be multifunctional in the sense that it would be a great room to relax and watch films at the weekend but also sociable for hosting guests, which we like to do often.

What does your home situation look like?

We have a 2-year-old English Show Type Cocker Spaniel called Alfie.

How do you prepare your home before hosting?

We like to light the fire and lots of candles!

Which rooms do you use for hosting?

The living room is my main hosting room when family and friends come over, and it opens up onto the garden so it’s a nice easy room to use. I’m currently doing my garden up ready for hosting in the summer months.

What qualities were you looking for in your new flooring?

The colour of the flooring was really important to us. We wanted a pale oak colour that almost looked unfinished and in its most natural state. It was also important for the flooring to be durable and hardwearing.

Have you ever had a ‘panic moment’ with your floor? If so, how did you handle it?

When installing our floor we were not prepared for how quickly the flooring glue dries, so we put less down at any given time and worked quicker.

Have you used our Stock hold, Klarna or Price Match services?

We used the stock hold service to secure the flooring in one of the sales. This was a great service as we did not want to lose out on the promotion but due to the renovation, we were not quite ready to accept delivery.

What advice would you give to someone looking to transform their floor?

Order lots of samples. The flooring can look different depending on how much natural light you get.

How has your new floor transformed your home?

It has made the space feel more cohesive and in keeping of the Georgian-style as well as feeling more luxurious.

  

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Copaia (Jacaranda copaia) is probably more commonly known in North American trade as para para. However, the common name of lumber from this tree varies from country to country. In fact, in Panama, it is sometimes called “elephant’s foot” as the corrugated trunk near the ground looks somewhat like an elephant’s foot.

The tree is found in Central and South America, from Belize to Brazil. It grows rapidly and is known for its ability to regenerate quickly in open clearings. It has a straight stem that can be free of branches for over 50 feet. The overall height exceeds 100 feet and the diameter is often more than 2 feet, not counting the swollen butt. It is this long straight stem that makes this tree suited for local use (where it grows) as roof poles and timbers with a long span.

The foliage resembles an arboreal fern; the leaves when broken have a somewhat obnoxious odor. The tree does have showy flowers that are a deep violet color, with blooms from February through April.

Because of the low density of the wood, because of its susceptibility to insects and decay, which is especially important in tropical countries, and because of its creamy color without much pretty grain, the wood is not highly regarded. This wood is a “local use” species; uses include furniture components, interior construction, boxes and crates, matchsticks and matchboxes. Reports are that much of the lumber from this tree is exported to China; it is then imported to various countries as an exposed wood in furniture and cabinets. Nevertheless, it does offer some manufacturing opportunities in the U.S. for furniture.

Processing suggestions and characteristics
Density. The density of para para varies, but averages about 17 pounds per cubic foot at 7 percent MC.

Drying. Para para is subject to rapid blue staining (a fungal activity), so it is critical that the lumber be dried promptly after sawing. Kiln drying is probably better than air drying to control this staining risk. The wood dries very rapidly and with little risk of checking, splitting or warping. 

Gluing and Machining. Gluing is easy. However, there is a risk of the liquid in the glue being adsorbed too rapidly. So, either increase the liquid content of the adhesive or move quickly after the glue is spread. Machining is also easy, but, if the tools are not sharp, the fibers will fuzz and not cut cleanly.

Stability. This wood is quite stable. It will take nearly a 7 percent moisture content change to result in a 1 percent size change radially. It will take nearly a 5 percent change tangentially to result in a 1 percent size change.

Strength. The strength varies with density. A typical strength value (MOR) is 7,040 psi. The stiffness is 1.3 million psi. Hardness is 350 pounds; these are all quite low. Comparable values for hard maple are 15,800 psi, 1.8 million psi and 1450 pounds.

Color and Grain. Heartwood and sapwood look similar and cannot easily be separated. The color is dull white with a slight hint of a pinkish hue. The vertical vessels show up as darker lines, giving the wood a coarse grain appearance. The luster is high.

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Coigue (Nothofagus dombeyi), a member of the southern beech family, is sometimes marketed as Chilean beech. The wood appears similar to our native and European beech, except for the absence of the ray fleck. 

It has a bit more pink or reddish coloration than North American beech. A nearly identical species is called rauli (Nothofagus procera). Note that the genus name Nothofagus means “false beech.”

These two species, coigue and rauli, grow mainly in Chile and Argentina. The trees are often 130 feet tall and three feet or larger in diameter. Although they are hardwood trees (that is, they have leaves and not needles), but they are also evergreens. 

The first branch is often more than 50 feet above the ground, meaning that the harvested tree produces large volumes of clear lumber. In the forests, the tree grows rapidly and in dense, single-species stands.

Due to its abundance and favorable growth and appearance, we expect to see more of this lumber imported into North America. 
However, on the negative side, much of the supply in Argentina is in national parks, so harvesting is limited.

The lumber from these two species appears similar to cherry and therefore is being sold as a cherry substitute, at considerably lower prices than cherry. 

The wood is easy to work and quite stable when the moisture changes. This wood is certainly an all-purpose type of wood and will find widespread uses in furniture and cabinets. 

Processing suggestions and characteristics
Density. The wood is almost always brought into the U.S. already kiln dried, although it may not be at the preferred 7.0 percent MC level. It weighs about 31 pounds per cubic foot, which means that a ¾-inch thick board foot will weigh about 2 pounds. There is a 10 percent natural variation in density from the lightest weight to the heavier pieces.

Drying. Drying is difficult — slow with a lot of warping and collapse. The collapse must be removed or recovered by using a steaming treatment at the end of drying. If not done, when the wood is exposed to wetting or high humidity in manufacturing or afterwards, it will swell erratically; it may swell 5 percent or more at this first wetting exposure. Shrinkage in drying, except for collapse is typical for a medium density hardwood, about 5.3 percent across the width of a flatsawn piece of lumber.

Gluing and machining. This wood glues very well with no extra care required. This wood also machines well, as might be expected, given its density. As always, the best machining occurs when knives are sharp.

Stability. Coigue is fairly stable, requiring a 4-1/2 percent MC change in the tangential direction (parallel to the rings) for a 1 percent size change. 

Strength. The ultimate bending strength (MOE) is 14,900 psi. The elasticity is 2.26 million psi. The hardness is 1160 pounds. Coigue is a bit stronger, stiffer, and harder than cherry. (The values reported here for coigue are for lower density material; some increase can be expected as the wood density wood increases.) For comparison, cherry is 12,300 psi, 1.49 psi and 950 pounds.

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Rubberwood is the name given to lumber from the rubber tree (Hevea brasiliensis), which is a tree producing latex to produce natural rubber. (Other names today include parawood and Malaysian oak.) 

Although Christopher Columbus was shown rubber on his journeys to the New World, it was not until 1839 that the vulcanization process was invented that made the elastic properties of rubber permanent. 

Prior to WW II, a vast forest area of rubber tree plantations, especially in the Amazon region, were envisioned and planted to satisfy the world’s growing demand for natural rubber. But then synthetic rubber was developed, making the rubber forests essentially obsolete. Today, with natural rubber being in more demand, Malaysia, Thailand and Indonesia grow most of the trees (covering 9 million acres), produce most of the natural rubber, and have the largest supplies of lumber.

The reason that rubberwood is an important lumber species is that the latex production from the trees drops after about 25 years. Further, newer genotypes have been developed in recent years resulting in higher production of latex, compared to older trees. So, the 25-year-old trees are being cut to renew the rubber forest. 

In the past, these old trees were burned. However, today, most of these older trees are being sawn into lumber. This lumber production from plantation grown trees is indeed quite environmentally friendly. Products made from this wood include furniture and cabinets, household woodenware, and parquet flooring, and this species is fairly popular in furniture that is being imported into the U.S.

Processing suggestions and characteristics
Density. Most plantation grown stock will run about 35 to 37 pounds per cubic foot at 7 percent MC. For a piece of wood at 7 percent MC that is ¾ inch thick by 6 inches wide and 24 inches long, the weight is 2.3 pounds. Kiln-dried, rough lumber will weigh about 3000 pounds per 1,000 BF.

Drying. Rubberwood dries rapidly with a medium to high risk of warp development. Splitting can also occur on the ends of the lumber pieces. Radially (thickness of a flatsawn piece) the shrinkage in drying is under 2 percent. Tangentially (the width in flatsawn lumber), shrinkage is 4 percent. 

Gluing and machining. Gluing is reported to be excellent. The wood machines well with few defects or problems.

Stability. It takes a 12 percent moisture content change for a 1 percent size change radially. It takes a 6 percent MC change tangentially. Kiln drying to the correct final MC (usualy about 7.0 percent MC) is required.

Strength. The strength (MOR) of dried rubberwood is 9,500 psi. The stiffness is 1.3 million psi. The hardness is 500 pounds.

Color and grain. The color of rubberwood is initially creamy when sawn, but after kiln drying and exposure to light, the wood turns darker with brownish and pinkish tints. The sapwood and heartwood appear similar and cannot be easily separated. The vertically running vessels give the grain a coarse appearance. These vessels also give the wood a bit of character.

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Three of the five major spruces in North America grow in the eastern half of the United States and Canada. Collectively called eastern spruce, they are red spruce (Picea rubens), white spruce (P. glauca) and black spruce (P. mariana). Red spruce is found primarily in New England, the Appalachians and eastern Canada, while white and black spruce are found in the Great Lakes region, New England and eastern Canada. Their wood is impossible to separate visually once sawn into lumber. The properties are also essentially identical.

Eastern spruce trees are usually not very large (seldom over 2 feet in diameter) and the lumber they produce often has very small knots. Although spruce is known for its high strength compared to its weight, the abundance of other softwood species with clearer wood in much of its growing area resulted in limited harvesting and manufacturing of eastern spruce lumber in the past. Among its uses, in colonial times, the wood was utilized for mast and spars; this use continues today for small sailing boats. 

Eastern spruce also still is used for piano sounding boards, violins and other musical instruments due to its excellent resonance properties. It also has potential applications in furniture and cabinets due to its gluing, machining, stability and strength properties. Perhaps the only limiting factor is, because of its past history of usage and its processing into construction lumber.

Today, pulpwood is probably eastern spruce’s number one use, followed by construction lumber, especially 2 x 4s and 2 x 6s, much of which is imported from Canada and sold under the species grouping of SPF lumber (spruce, pine, fir). 

Processing suggestions and characteristics
Density. The three spruces have a density of approximately 27 pounds per cubic foot at 7 percent MC. This is one of the lightest-weight species in North America.

Drying. The spruces dry easily with few defects. If logs or green lumber are stored in warm weather, blue stain in the sapwood is common. Shrinkage in drying is 6 percent. Final moisture content should be between 7.5 to 9 percent. As with most softwoods, higher MCs are desired, because excessively dry wood will develop torn grain and may require increased glue spread to avoid a starved joint.

Gluing and machining. They machine very easily, with few defects except around the knots. Gluing is excellent. The softness means the wood is quite forgiving if gluing conditions are not perfect.

Stability. The spruces are subject to minimal size changes when the MC changes — about 1 percent size change running across the grain parallel to the rings (tangentially) for each 5 percent MC change, and about 1 percent size change across the rings (radially) for each 10 percent MC change.

Strength. Spruces are medium in strength and stiffness. Bending strength (MOR) averages 10,800 psi for red and black and a little lower for white. Hardness averages 500 pounds. Stiffness (MOE) averages 1.6 million psi in red and black, with white 1.43 million psi.

Color and grain. The grain is straight, fine and uniform. The wood is pale white, with the sapwood and heartwood indistinguishable most of the time. There is no appreciable odor when dry.

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